Jacket Showdown: Wheaton vs Cozi
Is showdown the right word? It feels a tad dramatic for a comparison of two jacket patterns, but we'll see where this goes.
I previewed Hey June's Wheaton Windbreaker last year and then pounced on the testing call for Pattern Scout’s Cozi Jacket this year even though both jackets are rather similar in style. WHY? For starters, I HAVE fabric; I LOVE fabric; I’m not going to stop buying fabric. I quite enjoy sewing. I also find that I can learn a lot from sewing things from different designers. While I’ve sewn nearly every Hey June pattern, I had only sewn the Lulu by Pattern Scout.
If I had a crystal ball and had known I would eventually compare these two jacket patterns, I would have used the same fabric to make both. Keep in mind the Wheaton I’m sharing is made from a light brushed twill or suiting of some sort and the Cozi is made from a wide wale corduroy. The corduroy has much more loft and body. Also note I added elastic in the hem band of the Wheaton jacket and the color-blocked stripe that mirrors the center section of the hood (due to fabric constraints).
Wheaton Windbreaker line drawings
Cozi Jacket line drawings
Style
Both are described as casual, lightweight, cropped zippered jackets with hoods. The designs mainly depart at the sleeves. Wheaton’s is a long dolman sleeve (no seam between the body and sleeve), while Cozi features a dropped shoulder (the sleeve seam “falls off” the top of the shoulder). Because the long sleeve is incorporated into the same piece as the body on Wheaton, there’s a seam at the center back as most fashion fabrics do not come much wider than 60”.
Wheaton, size 6
Cozi, size 8
Size Range
The Wheaton and Cozi jacket patterns both cover sizes 0-30, corresponding to body measurements of up to 58” bust and 60” hip. Both jackets also feature several inches of positive design ease, so there’s possibly a little wiggle room at the top of the range in these “oversized” styles, and some folks may choose to “size down” based on personal fit preferences. (My favorite discussion of style vs wearing ease is found here.)
Fabrics
A wide range of woven and stable knit fabrics are suitable for Cozi and the instructions direct the maker to perform a few subtle assembly changes for woven or knit material. On the other hand, Wheaton is drafted specifically for woven fabrics. This means Wheaton works BEST with wovens. Could one use a knit fabric? Sure, with some smart modifications, one can do anything!
Hood
Wheaton’s hood is three pieces (and has a three-piece facing), while the hood on Cozi is two pieces and unlined. Cozi does have the added feature of an alternate neckline with a funnel collar pattern piece included.
Pockets
Cozi has roomy, easy to sew, front patch pockets with an angled opening.
The pockets on the Wheaton jacket are a bit more complex in that they’re large welts with pocket bags on the interior. Don’t let that four letter word scare you off. The pattern pieces are well-designed and the instructions will hold your hand through each step. (Thanks, Adrianna!)
Finishing
As mentioned above in the hood discussion, the Wheaton is “faced.” Think of a facing as a narrow or partial lining piece(s) if you’re not familiar with the term. This equates to more pattern pieces to cut out, =/-interface, and sew. Cozi is “simpler” and features a binding along the zipper tape only. All seams (which is not many!) are otherwise finished in the maker’s preferred fashion.
Price
The patterns are priced comparably with a $12 tag on Wheaton and (at least at the time of writing) “pick your price” options of $10, $12, and $14 for Cozi.
Additional Resources
Wheaton tester roundup, Cozi tester roundup
Wheaton on Insta, Cozi on Insta
Cozi Inspiration Pinterest Board
Wheaton welt pocket tutorial, Metal zipper tutorial by Pattern Scout
Winner?
I don’t think there is one pattern that comes out undeniably on top. Choose Wheaton for its finesse and to satisfy that thirst for a slower-paced make with opportunities for top stitch detailing. Cozi is your best bet if you crave a building block jacket pattern that sews up quickly and includes an additional neckline option.
Thanks for stopping by! As always, if you have a question drop it below.
Just how many jackets does one person need? As many as one wants. (The Chalk and Notch Joy Jacket and Hey June Evergreen are two other favorites I’ve sewn multiple times.)
