Pandemic Pants
Hard pants are so pre-demic. Elastic waist, pull-on pants are where I’m at now.
I recently made four/five pairs (listen, one is for my sister) of soft hard pants (or are they hard soft pants?), changing up the details each time. This post isn’t so much a comprehensive pants-making post so much as it’s about playing with the features and havin’ fun, yo.
This story sort of starts two years back when I set out to recreate a beloved pair of stretch linen joggers. (Full blog post on that here.) I don't have the rtw pants any longer (they always ended up too slouchy, particularly at the waist) and their recreation doesn’t actually get worn much. I think because the general cut feels a bit too wide with the elastic cuff at the hem. But hey. I’m sure I learned something. No regrets.
Fast forward to 2021. While I LOVE a good pair of knit joggers (Hudsons are my go-to), I was looking to create the illusion of being a little more put together. Think SEXY SWEATPANTS. Yes, it sounds like an oxymoron. But comfortable pants with a few elevated details is the goal.
On my journey, I decided to give the Named Ruri sweatpants a go since I had owned the pattern for a few years, but hadn’t gotten around to sewing them. The sample in the listing surely looks promising. The faux fly and ankle detail are interesting features one doesn’t run into on sweatpants. At any rate, I wasn’t keen on Ruri. My muslin came out rather “frumpy,” for lack of a better word, particularly around the pockets (which didn’t hang well), and I didn’t bother to finish them so they could be wearable. At any rate, I appreciated the faux fly detail and fortunately no “good” fabric was harmed.
Ruri, exterior
Ruri, interior
Since making Ruri work was going to take a bit more effort (size adjustment and pocket re-draft to incorporate the upper portion in the waistband) than I was willing to put in, I went back to tried and true Seaforth.
I tested the Hey June Seaforth pattern last year and it’s become my prefered woven jogger pattern (over the Itch to Stitch Tierras, which lack tailoring of the silhouette for the elastic cuff view). The French terry-backed denim I pulled from my stash worked rather nicely. The weight was just right, they have a smidge of give (maybe 10%), and the loopy goodness inside takes the coziness up several notches. Generally speaking, one would “size down” a pattern made for wovens when making it with stretch fabric (which lends ease). I didn't prep a smaller size of the Seaforth pattern though because the fabric I was using wasn’t very stretchy, because I suspected my current measurements could possibly bump up into the next size (one step forward then one step back means you're in the same place), BUTT most significantly because I'm lazy. The pockets are different, but the base is 100% Seaforth, view B.
That front pocket is a favorite that I sub in frequently. It’s from the Fiona Sundress. It’s essentially a patch pocket with a faced opening.
These pants are incredibly comfortable, nearly as much so as knit joggers, but I certainly also felt much more put together wearing them. (This was likely spurred by the bathroom renovation we were experiencing. You know, to fool the construction folks into thinking I don’t just sit around in jammas all day. But really, they probably DGAF.)
MOAR stretch woven pull-on pants were in order immediately. Next up was an olive pair with cargo details, inspired by this image.
Friend, Gwyn, sent this image to me, so she gets 110% of the credit
POCKETS. Darts. Extra stitching. A simple rolled cuff. GOOD STUFF.
I used the Bryce Cargo pattern this time (with that Fiona pocket, of course). The only “trick” one needs to know to sub in a patch pocket for a slash or other hip pocket is to eliminate the original pocket opening. I do this by simply using the pocket facing to complete the front shape.
I essentially slapped the Seaforth waistband on Bryce, adjusting (decreasing) the width to fit. A few years before the Seaforth pattern was born, Emily was using Bryce to make woven joggers. Her post on the Hey June blog gives details on creating your own waistband.
I ended up making a really good stand in for those rtw linen joggers I forgot I loved so much.
My favorite picture of these was taken in the kitchen by one of my mini mes
I don’t have much to say about the black stretch linen pair. They are essentially a copy of the olive pair, but made as a gift for my sister.
My sister is cute.
Thankfully, PDX Sewing Studio had more stretch linen in stock. I ordered a couple cuts for a birthday treat for myself. I sewed up the wine right away.
These started the same as the olive pair, using the Bryce pattern. I changed up the front pockets on this pair, but I don’t really want to talk about that. (The pocket is spacious, but the opening is a little small and it’s not very comfortable to slip my hand in.) I DO want to talk about the ankle zippers though!
The Closet Core tutorial for ankle zippers came in handy. The only thing I would add is that you can insert the zippers after closing the outseam and before stitching the inseam, so it can be done flat.
While this came out fine as is, I ended up going back in, shortening the zipper enough to make myself a casing to add elastic, and now they are LOVE.
Below is a photo series showing the transition of the simple hem with the ankle zip to the final hem with elastic added. I basted some elastic in first to sample the effect before releasing the zipper and shortening it. I like to earn bonus points for adding the stop back on. The last image is brightened slightly to show the reinforcing stitches that hold the elastic ends in place.
Ok! Last pair!
As I’m quite the fabric stasher, I have a couple various cuts of denim with french terry on the back. One of these materials is extra stretchy and I decided to take a stab at the Jamie Jeans pattern with it. I constructed these without any major changes until the fly (faux) and the waistband which are the same as the Bryce pull-ons as above. It really is that easy to make any pants pull-on. What I really love is that a waistband like this stretches enough to slip past my hips but then I can cinch them in a bit with the drawstring and they stay put.
Ahhh. That cozy French terry. These are like wearing a sweater. The pocket bag material is a stretch chambray.
I’m hesitant to share the back of these as they still need a little work. At any rate, I didn’t love the heavy top stitching (triple stitch) so I placed the back pockets over top. I should pull the yoke stitching out, but the inside is terry, so I don’t want to snag those loops in the process. Maybe I’ll fix these up, maybe I’ll just always wear long shirts that cover my backside. Have we discussed my lazy nature?
Seaforth pajama jeans vs Jamie jama jeans. Two different French terry-backed denims from LA Finch Fabrics.
Pants ought to be comfortable and good looking, eh. Thankfully, as sewers, we get to ensure both!
I covered a lot of detail details here, but also left out many. If you have any questions, I’m happy to answer them in the comments.
Alternative title- The Four Pantsman of the Apocalypse?
