Heyyy, Kendra!

So this make is a looooong time coming. I had planned to make a version of an Anthroplogie jumpsuit since March (?) when the #sewbibs challenge started. I remember being quite thankful the challenge was running through mid-April. I had plenty of time!! LOADS OF TIME.

Yeah. So it’s June now. Hey June June. Don’t ask me what happened to the last 3 months. I quite literally don’t know. But here’s what I do know. I made that jumpsuit. My way. And it is practically nothing like the original jumpsuit I set out to make.

So. The fabric. The amazing Harts crew sent me some of the Robert Kaufman Santa Cruz twill in moss. Obviously it’s not pink. But I picked it out before I decided pink was a color I’d wear. (I’ve since made a pink jacket and 2 pink shirts…It’s been 3 months. People change.) THANKS, HARTS! Sorry, I took an eon on this project.

And. The patterns. Fiona Sundress and Kendrick Overalls. Harts also supplied the Fiona pattern. And I tried my best to work with the tissue pattern. But I’m a PDF pattern girl and I just CANNOT handle tissue patterns. The are scary just like spiders. So I sold the paper pattern and bought the PDF. And my life got 4000 percent* better.

Princess seams and buttons up the front. I was on the right track here. I muslined view A of Fiona in white stretch twill.

Then I started on the bottom portion using the Kendricks pants. Now if one went back and looked at the style lines on the Anthro inspo, they have little pleats in the front. I wasn’t so much interested in that, nor slash pockets. They always gape. No thanks.

I cut the Kendrick pants straight up without the hip pockets as I planned to add the beautiful patch pockets from Fiona here. Given I measure 29” at the waist and 37” for hips and I had non-stretch fabric, I choose to start with size 8. After a quick baste fit of the 8, while neglecting to read where it says in the directions that the outseam has a full 1” seam allowance, I found them to be miles too big. I decided to reprint and start with size 4. I’d have lots of room in the outseam to adjust if necessary. Ultimately, the 4 was a much better place to start.

At some point I remembered the back of the jumpsuit as having cross over straps and so for some reason I switched to using the view B bodice from Fiona. I think at this point the jumpsuit had sold out so there weren’t many pictures to consult and I had a temporary moment of insanity. I mean why would I have muslined the other view if I ultimately intended to use a different one? I just can’t explain it.

why, Loni? why?

why, Loni? why?

To attach the Fiona top to the Kendricks bottoms, I simply sandwiched the top seam of the waistband/waistband facing, lining up the side seams. Top stitching the waistband facing finished it all off

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So my jumpsuit doesn’t look THAT MUCH like the original one I set out to copy. It’s not pink. The straps and back cut are differently and the pants are not at all the same style. No flare.

But it’s done!

I made this!

I made this!

Kinda cute?

I realized that wedgie was a pain in the ass and something ought to be done about it.

#lowbuttsewwhat

#lowbuttsewwhat

A quick low seat adjustment helped!

before and after a low seat adjustment

before and after a low seat adjustment

It looks like I moved the pockets down too, but I hadn’t! It’s just the magic of that little scoop of the back crotch curve.

The legs were slimmed quite a bit from the original silhouette of Kendrick. I pulled a full inch off the outseam of both the front and back leg starting at the hem and tapering back to the original seam allowance at the bottom of the patch pocket.

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I kinda wish I had brained how to do a zipper in the back or one of the side seams. It’s a lot of buttons to undo if you’re needing to use the loo. (I’ve been watching Fleabag, you?)

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I had added 5 inches to the hem length from the outset since wanted them to be full length, but I think I prefer them rolled. They probably ended up at the same length as originally designed. #alwaystrustadrianna

The finishing for both patterns is fab.

The bias trim on the edge of the waistband facing is not done “right” per se, but it’s done.

The bias trim on the edge of the waistband facing is not done “right” per se, but it’s done.

I used Citron Jeans buttons because they are the. best. period.

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So I’m glad I saw this vision through. Even if it’s a few months late for #sewbibs, it’s 50% Hey June!

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*hyperbole never

Lucerne, Lucerne, Lucerne, LUCERNNNNNE!

Here’s the earworm that accompanies my post:

Thanks, Dolly!


Now let’s get to business.

One of my favorite indie pattern designers has done it again! Adrianna of Hey June Handmade has a new top (aka blouse) and it’s more or less the perfect simple woven top pattern. While I’m calling the Lucerne Blouse simple, she’s not short on interesting details.

Stunning tie sleeves or delicate petal sleeves. Both are winners.

You have your choice of 2 included neckline shapes as well, but I’m just now realizing I only sampled the rounded neckline during testing.

it’s a wee bit wrinkled. shoot me.

it’s a wee bit wrinkled. shoot me.

My first version is sewn from a 1 yard cut of some magical micro stripe lawn (ticking?) of unknown source. ETA- I found it! It’s cotton voile, soured from La Mercerie.

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label a la Gwyn, ( she’s clever )

label a la Gwyn, (she’s clever)

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The stupendous Marie-Fluerine made a gorgeous lined lace version during testing and I had to copy her and make myself one right quick. And my trusty stash did not disappoint.

stretch twill Anthro-inspired pants-  blogged

stretch twill Anthro-inspired pants- blogged

This lace version is lined with lawn and sports the petal sleeves. Doing a full lining, one can omit the facing.

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Lace purchased from La Finch Fabrics several years back.

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I hemmed the lining a half inch higher than the outer layer to keep it from hanging below.

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And we’re just getting started! with a super simple general body style, Lucerne is very “hackable,” meaning make a few mods, and you’ve got a new style. So I cut into some of my new Rifle Paper Co. rayon.

Yeah. I pressed a big crease there and didn’t notice. It’s fine. Chill.

Yeah. I pressed a big crease there and didn’t notice. It’s fine. Chill.

And I gave this blouse what I call the Trevi treatment. (Trevi, if you’re not a well-seasoned Hey June patterns enthusiast, is a button-back tank top and dress.)

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Simply cut 2 mirrored back pieces, 1.5 inches away from the fold. Fold the center back under twice (1/4” and 5/8”) and you’ve got yourself a placket. You can make functional buttonholes and stuff, but you already know this blouse fits over your head without closures, so you can go ahead and just sew the buttons on through all the layers. #jazzhands

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The neckline on this blouse is bound with bias and the sleeve pieces have a delicate little rolled hem.

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Now that you’ve got two sexy sleeve variations, you can borrow the methods from Lucerne and add the same details to other tops.

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Take that beautiful tie sleeve and slap it on a button-up.

Cheyenne  in white rayon challis. Black  Ginger jeans .

Cheyenne in white rayon challis. Black Ginger jeans.

Keep the sleeve cap the same as your base pattern; just transfer the slit and sleeve length. Bind that baby and add the tie. You’re a sewing rockstar!

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I think I’ll be copying this ready to wear blouse shortly!

So, thanks for stopping by! I don’t need to tell you you NEED Lucerne in your pattern library, because you already bought it, right? Like yesterday?


[I sewed a straight size 8 for all my versions. (I measure 34” high bust, 35” full bust, 28” waist, 37” hips. 5’5”.)]

Willamins: a Willamette hack

IndieSew brought Shirt Month back again this February. I had renamed February GiveYOUary and declared I was only sewing for other people this month, but the #shirtmonth fomo was strong. Plus, Jessica Swift had sent me some of her incredibly gorgeous rayon from her new Art Gallery Fabrics collection, Lugu, and I knew I wanted to make myself a Willamette with my advance yardage. (I’ll be sewing a dress for Jessica in exchange for these fabrics!)

I had been eyeing the Perkins shirt dress pattern, but hadn’t pulled the trigger on buying it when I occurred to me I could approximate the look with a few mods to the Hey June pattern I already owned.

Perkins shirt dress by Ensemble Patterns

Perkins shirt dress by Ensemble Patterns

I didn’t realize the sleeve on Perkins is raglan until just now! But anyway, I wanted to imitate the gathered front shoulder and extra boxy shape.

I sewed view A in size 6. (I’m 5"‘5” with a 35/36” full bust and 38” hips.)

I removed 1.5 inches from the front shoulder, adding that same amount to the yoke in the back. This adjustment was also done to the front facing and sleeve pieces to keep all the seams aligned. When cutting the shirt front, I slashed the pattern piece mid shoulder and spread it about 6 or 8 inches. This extra width was gathered into the yoke.

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oh hey. This picture shows the spread was about 6.5” inches.

oh hey. This picture shows the spread was about 6.5” inches.

I used the Lumina Dusk for the yoke facing.

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The drape on the rayon is just excellent.

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I did a full placket much like Tori did here except I didn’t even bother to sew the plackets down! The buttons and holes hold the plackets in place nicely.

I used the Lumina Dusk to finish the hem with bias. I use the “French” bias binding approach as demonstrated here.

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These stunning silver mirrored buttons are from Arrow Mountain. (Out of stock at the time of publishing this post, but Ho-mei assures me they will restock soon! I’ve got my eye on the gold ones now!)

It’s love!! OBVIOUSLY.

It’s cute with the half tuck.

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or tied!

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Thank you Jessica for sharing your new fabric with me! Each new collection is even more beautiful than the last.

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THE END.

Anthro-Inspired Franken-Pants: A #sewfancypants Win

At some point in November (2018) I came across these pants on the interwebs. I instantly fell in love with the style lines and wanted to recreate them in the wine color.

The ankle button tab detail! Squee!

So I purchased the cardinal stretch chino twill offered by La Mercerie during Jess’ Black Friday Sale.

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After sewing both the Liana Stretch Jeans by Itch to Stitch and the Narcisse Pants by Deer and Doe for Sew Fancy Pants, I knew I wanted to combine aspects of both patterns to achieve the ready to wear pants of my dreams.

[Itch to Stitch and Deer and Doe were both sponsors for the Sew Fancy Pants Instagram event. I purchased the Liana pattern from UpCraft Club with my monthly credit (I have a month-to-month account) and I received the Narcisse pattern for free.]


The back of the pants are 90% Liana. I laid the Liana back pattern piece over the back of the Bryce cargo pattern (which I had also previously sewn) to eliminate the yoke.

(It’s come to my attention since winging this my own way, that there are posts out there (for example) about switching out a pattern with a yoke for one with darts, but I went the mashing route with 2 of my tried and true patterns.)

I used the patch pocket markings from Bryce to situate the welts from Narcisse and used all the back welt pocket pattern pieces and instructions from Narcisse.

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The front of my pants are also about 80% (I’m making these numbers up as I go along) Liana with a touch of Narcisse. I knew from my muslin of Liana that I would cut the front of the pants 10” up from the original hem to create the lower front vented panel. I took 2” off from the original side seam to make the side seam panel that would give birth to the front inseam pockets a la Narcisse.

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And here is where I made a mistake I frequently make when altering patterns. I cut my new side panel 2 1/2” (width plus seam allowance x 1) wide instead of 3” wide (width plus seam allowance x 2). Thankfully the 1/2” seam allowance was enough that I could sew the fronts with 1/4” seam allowances and not end up with a pair of pants a size too small.

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So anyway! The front pockets are basically inseam pockets. They sit on the seam I created between the front of the pants and the 2” wide side panel. This general approach was borrowed from Narcisse.

And the pockets are enormous! After all was said and done, the left pocket was too wide and overlapped with the front fly too much, so I trimmed it down.

Sorry this photo is too purple. White balance is for people who know what they are doing. That’s obviously not me.

Sorry this photo is too purple. White balance is for people who know what they are doing. That’s obviously not me.

This was after I removed about 3” from the top of the Narcisse front pocket pattern piece! The rise on Narcisse is higher than Liana and I just guestimated how big I would want these to be by holding the pattern piece up to my body. If I were to do it over again, I would adapt the Liana pocket stays to be compatible with an inseam construction.

Since the fly isn’t stabilized by the pockets in my pants, I interfaced the fly extensions.

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The lower front panel was the bottom 10 1/2” of the original Liana front. I attached it to the assembled upper front and top stitched the seam. When I closed the side seams, I simply stopped at the level of the bottom panel.

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I removed an inch from length at the hem so they would finish at the ankle (I am 5’ 5” tall). I also slimmed the width of both the front and back at the vent, tapering from 1” wide at the hem to nothing at the top of the vent. (I wear a size 7 shoe and this was perfect for me, but you ought to do some foot and ankle measurements if you want to be able to keep the buttons closed while taking the pants on and off. It wouldn’t be the worst thing in the world to have to open and closed the buttons, but I don’t have time for that myself!

Now comes the creative part for creating the button placket/vent feature. I polled my IG followers and mulled it over quite a bit. Folks either said they would approach it as a button fly a la Landers or they would bind the seam a la Brunswick. I don’t own the Lander pants pattern and was familiar with Brunswick having recently tested that pattern, so I went with that method.

I sewed the hem before adding the binding. My pattern piece for the binding was 4” wide by 18” (2” finished width plus seam allowance x 2 by (vent height x 2) plus (seam allowance x 2)). I hope I’m making sense! I wish I had some simple illustration skillz. I just don’t!

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Then they just needed a shit ton of buttons. Lucky for me, I’m a glutton and had ordered a bucket load from my favorite jeans button peddler, Citron Jeans, about 10 days prior.

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These are 14mm buttons, so I used 2 for the waistband.

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Five on each ankle vent.

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And 1 for each of the welts.

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So 14 buttons and holes! Weee!

The end of my story is simply that I love these pants. I think they turned out pretty damn amazing.

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And my pocket bags match my Rifle Paper Co. rayon Trevi top (which I made last summer)! Kudos to that Clever gal, Colleen, for telling me to pair these 2 garments together.

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And they look great with my new Keds!

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I’m always happy to talk shop if you have any questions or comments. Thanks for reading!

Cropped Evergreen Jacket

I had been wearing my first Evergreen jacket a bit this fall and loving it, but also wishing I had another one… with possibly a lot less stripes, so when this sage sweatshirt fleece from Harts came into my life, I knew it was going to be great at filling that void.

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Now, I’m not sure I would call the color of this sweatshirt fleece “sage” myself. It’s more on the army green spectrum to me. But it’s a lovely color and it’s got a soft knit face and fluffy brushed goodness inside. It’s neither too drapey nor too stiff. Basically it’s pretty damn good stuff.

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Since I had made an Evergreen jacket before, I did have some changes I wanted to make to this version. Mostly, I knew I wanted a more fitted little jacket. (More on that later.) And I took my time adding some details; some seams have an extra row of top stitching and I decided to quilt the yokes for some tonal texture. And, if you know me, you know I love texture.

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I typically use a stitch length of 2.8 for my top stitching and I used a stitching length of 3.0 for the quilted lines. I can’t remember the last time I used a walking foot on knits. I find those clunky things too… well…. clunky.

I pulled these adorable cuties from my stash to use for the pocket bags on the zippered pockets.

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The zippers were sourced from Wawak. Evergreen calls for a separating jacket zipper and 2 regular zippers for the pockets. I went with the antique brass finish and army green zipper tape. I’d say they are a good match and look cohesive.

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Zippers can be intimidating, but since I learned how to shorten metal zippers last year by simply pulling extra teeth from the top, I’m not scared anymore. Bring on the fancy zippered projects!

The major departure I took from the pattern as written was to opt for a cropped look. I just skipped all the hem band pieces and installed the bottom of the main zipper 3/8” from the bottom of the front pieces. The seam allowance at the bottom left me room to finish the bottom of the jacket with a hem facing I planned to draft.

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Now, once I got the main jacket assembled I shared my progress on IG. I wasn’t sure how I wanted to finish the sleeves as far as the style or length.

The popular opinion was to add elongated sleeve cuffs. But I was itching to crop the sleeves. When Adrianna, the pattern designer, weighed in, the fate of the sleeves was sealed. I was going cropped.

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So I determined where I wanted the finished sleeves to fall (mid forearm; is that 3/4 length?) and ended up shortening the sleeve from the hem by 2”.

Then I set to making simple button cuffs. My drafted cuff pattern follows- 2” wide by measured sleeve circumference + (seam allowance x 2). (Roughly 2” x 10.5”.) Cut 4 of fabric. Cut 4 of interfacing.

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I lazily chose 2” for the cuff height because I love to use this 2” wide tricot on a roll for interfacing whenever I can.

I opened the seam between the front and back sleeve parts about 2 inches and bound the little placket area with a coordinating woven (coincidentally it was scraps from other Hey June this project). Popped on my simple cuffs and added the buttons and holes.

Gratuitous pic of my button cuff-related gear, so I can say, “these are few of my favorite tooools…”

yes. it’s a kid-sized hammer from Lowe’s

yes. it’s a kid-sized hammer from Lowe’s

In lieu of a facing I opted to simply serge and hem the bottom of the jacket.

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So here’s something fun that happened. I realized just after finishing both cuffs that I had only shortened 1 sleeve. Yup. One sleeve was 2” longer than the other. The left one, if you must know.

Honestly, it wasn’t terribly noticeable unless you measured the sleeves. I tend to push them up a tad anyhow. And again with the honesty, I seriously considered leaving the jacket as is until it bothered me.

At some point the next day, after a stewing in my mistake overnight, I realized I wouldn’t have to completely redo the whole cuff. I could simply undo the stitching at the sleeve edge, shorten the sleeve, and reattach the cuff with top stitching. The buttonhole and button would be spared. Well yes, you’re right. I’d have to redo the little placket again too.

And so I did all that and used my zipper foot to get around the cherished button I had grown so fond of.

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And that’s the story.

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I love to wear this jacket over sleeveless tops and I know it’s going to be perfect for spring layering.

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Cowl neck top pattern, testing sample- Taos Top by  Thread Bear

Cowl neck top pattern, testing sample- Taos Top by Thread Bear

My quilting worked out really nicely on one side. The other side is lovely too, just not its own photo on the blog lovely.

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I love seeing them side by side. So similar and yet so different!

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Both jackets are the same size. I find that because the striped fabric (ponte) has more stretch, it often feels much more relaxed, like a stylish sweatshirt more than a trendy jacket.

2018 Guest Blog Posts!

I wrote a few posts as a guest on some great sewing blogs this year and possibly neglected my blog from time to time. That is the beauty of the Maybe Blog, though. No pressure, you know? At any rate, I’m I’m linking to my posts across the webs here in a patting my own back exercise. #noshame

Woven Pixie Tee

Chalk & Notch’s Pixie Tee is as great in woven fabric as it is in knits.


Metallic Kaufman linen and Art Gallery cotton for the lining. LOVE.


I added a little something to the back of this Cheyenne. All the details, my favorite tools for sewing button-ups, and my tips for success are in the guest post.


Another Pixie tee hack, this one for cooler weather. So cozy and very simple to add a cowl. Gabriela even has a downloadable reference for the mods.


Pleats make everything better! Right?


This one is probably my favorite, but maybe I say that about every fresh-off-the-machine make. ;)

Hey June Brunswick Pullover

My heart skipped about 4 beats when I got the opportunity to test a pattern for Adrianna, the genius behind Hey June Handmade. It’s hard for me to think of an HJ pattern that I haven’t sewn.

Let’s talk Brunswick!

I made a size 10 as per my high bust measurement of 35” and 39” hips. Brunswick is certainly oversized, as you can gather from the finished garment measurements, and has a dramatic drop shoulder with several interchangeable style options.

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The perfect fabric was waiting right in my stash, aspiring to become something amazing. It was actually slated to become a Love Notions Whistler (which I have never sewn), but I’m really glad Brunswick came along at just the right time.

Enabler Alert- They have navy and coral too.

Enabler Alert- They have navy and coral too.

At any rate, this chunky double knit has a little bit more stretch (about 30%) than suggested for Brunswick, but it’s quite stable.

I opted to sew the hood and side plackets.

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The side plackets are a little more involved than the details on a basic sweatshirt, but that’s (part of) what makes Brunswick great.

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I lined the hood with a delicious End of Bolt sweatshirt fleece from LA Finch Fabrics. (Pro tip: really great goodies in the Finch EOBs just waiting to be rescued. I pretty much start all my fabric shopping there.) My cut was only a tad bit more than a yard. You better believe I laid out my pieces in hopes of making a full sweatshirt from this stuff, but I had to stop deluding myself and just use it for the hood.

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I still need to find just the right lace or drawstring for my hood. I’m possibly a bit obsessed with the details on Brunswick.

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I used 4 oversized (30mm) wooden buttons on the side plackets. Love that pop of Rifle Paper fabric.

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I slimmed the sleeve body from the elbow down and removed 1.5” from the cuff width as well. This is fitting modification is outlined in the pattern alterations section.

The final pattern was modified slightly from this testing version; there’s an added cropped cut line (1.5" shorter), the sleeves were shorted by 1", and the cowl (alternate view) was widened by 2" in both directions.

helpers gonna help

helpers gonna help

Here’s some Brunswick rtw inspiration from around the webs to get you inspired-

It is, of course, completely up to you and your fabric whether you choose to size down or make an oversized Orb of Comfort (TM) as Adrianna intended. I do recommend finding a cozy knit with not much stretch and going for the gold, though.

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See Adrianna’s Brunswick release post for more details and go ahead and leave me a comment if you have any questions!

Linen Bryce Cargo Joggers

I only started sewing pants and jeans this year and let me tell you how incredible it feels to wear outfits that are top to bottom self-sewn.

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My hack of the Bryce Cargos was borne from my desire to recreate a pair of ready to wear (rtw) linen pants I have. These pants have a zip fly, cargo details, darts for waist shaping in the back, and a jogger-style elastic cuff.

I had (somewhat foolishly) tried using a woven jogger pattern first (Tierras), but of course there was a lot of extra fabric and ease, so they could be pulled on. I often need to grade the waist of my pants down to fit my waist (or up to fit my derriere, depending on your perspective), so naturally, I can get a better fit with a more tailored style.  

I really wanted to make sure the welt patch pocket detail on the rtw pants was a feature on my recreation. Take a closer look at how cool they are.

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When I asked Adrianna, the beauty and brains behind Hey June Handmade, if she thought the Bryce pattern would work for non-stretch pants, she enthusiastically said it was very possible, because she had already done it! (But hasn’t shared them yet.)

While I was making my stretch twill Bryce Cargos, I laid my rtw linen pants over the unaltered pattern and could tell I was on the right track already.

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In choosing a size for non-stretch fabric*, I went with the size that fits my waist well (8) and went up 2 sizes (12) for the remainder of the pattern. I simply took the top of the pants in slightly to fit the smaller waistband.

* My fabric actually does have some some spandex in it and is described as having 5% stretch aka not much, so for all intents and purposes, let’s just say it’s non-stretch

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The basic approach to these joggers was to trace off (a big deal if you know me) the pants front (with the pocket facing overlaid to eliminate the slash pockets) and back, widening the legs straight from the hips and then to taper them slightly at the knee point. I eliminated the knee darts in the front, adjusting the length accordingly. At the hems, squared up the bottom 1.5 inches to become the casing for 1-inch elastic.

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The welt pocket pattern piece came directly from the original pocket pattern piece, folded on the fold line.

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The construction of the welt pockets was fun (and by fun I mean challenging) to figure out. I don’t have a lot of experience sewing welts, but after a few scrappy trials, I figured them out with the help of this post.

I’m not very interested in writing out all the details here. #sorrynotsorry It would have been a snooze-fest. I’m more than happy, however, to answer questions if you happen to have any.

After creating the welt pocket, it’s simply a matter of sewing the pocket to the pants front as a patch. Press the bottom and inside edges to the wrong side and top stitch the pocket in place.

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I think my end result is pretty close to my inspiration pair. They do sit higher on my waist, but that is good; the rtw pair is constantly falling down.

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And they have pretty guts.

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I love that these pants can be styled in a multitude of ways from a bit dressy to rather casual.

worn with a Cheyenne tunic

worn with a Cheyenne tunic

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modeled with a sweater knit Lane raglan

modeled with a sweater knit Lane raglan

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Now that I’ve tasted success with my $5 linen, I’ll be using some more expensive fabric next. I like the Avery linen La Mercerie carries and as well as this (sold out) rust colored linen from Blackbird. A friend picked up a very similar linen for me at Mood recently.

I found Emily’s tutorial on the Hey June blog while I was working on writing this post. Check it out if you’re interested in an alternative approach to Bryce joggers.

Very Wearable Muslin: Bryce Cargo Pants

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I must have just started sewing pants at the beginning of this year and binged on a few views of Ginger jeans, Morgans, Jamie jeans, as well as Birkins just before the Bryce cargos released. So I must have been over pants sewing and thought I didn’t need another pants pattern. Hello. I was rather wrong.

Pockets and knee darts aside, I also don’t think I realized the style lines were different than most jeans or pants patterns with a yoke in the back. Bryce cargos don’t have one, but instead achieve waist fitting through darts and a 3 piece waistband. That waistband is curved just right. Simple rectangular waistbands don’t seem to fit curvy bodies nearly so well.

So anyway! I’m here to tell you that I loved sewing these pants and that fitting them was very straightforward for me.

My body measurements (30” waist and 40” hips) put me right in a size 12, so I started right there.

I used a rather nice navy stretch twill from LA Finch Fabrics from my stash. My records say I purchased 2 yards and it was exactly what I needed (note- I omitted flaps on all the pockets and modified the front pockets slightly, but I still think it was the perfect amount).

#feetforscale

#feetforscale

This is all I had left after re-cutting the waistband including the facing (more on that to follow).

So I basted the pants (minus waistband) before doing any construction and they looked and felt pretty good so I went forward with cutting all the pieces, assembling, and finishing as per the directions along the way. With cargo pockets on the sides just above the knees, the outseams are completed before the inseams. That’s all good, but it is often a seam I make fit adjustments along, so I would definitely muslin or baste these pants without worrying about the pockets first.

It’s very common for me to need to adjust the back waist on pants so they don’t gap. I simply took in a small wedge right along the center back seam that in effect removed about an inch total. The directions give advise on adjusting the waist in 2 fashions- taking in the waist at the side seams and adjusting and adding back darts (or a combination or these for more than 2” of adjustment). So I probably should have taken from the side seams, but it was just so easy to adjust the center back seam.

I love, love, love the finishing on the waistband. These are the first pair of pants I’ve sewn using a bias binding in this manner and trying new techniques is something I really enjoy when sewing different patterns.

waistband facing with bias binding

waistband facing with bias binding

Now, the size 12 waistband seemed to fit my pants fine even though I had adjusted the waist so I went ahead and sewed it on and finished the pants with the exception of the button and buttonhole. Buttonholes are not something I undertake late at night.

Hot damn, though. They really were too big at the waist. I shouldn’t have been surprised. I hadn’t adjusted the waistband even though I had adjusted the pants at the waist. So I slept on how I was going to tackle a fix. I really liked the material and how the pants had turned out so I was willing to put in the effort to make them more wearable.

Simplest fix really- I pulled the waistband completely off, printed a size 8 waistband, recut and assembled fresh (it was just as much a treat the second time around). Now, I’m here to tell you my Bryce cargos fit much better (shocking, I know) and I love them.

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I’m 5’ 5” and I made no adjustments to the length.

Proof that I put a button on ;)

Proof that I put a button on ;)

worn with a Trevi top

worn with a Trevi top

Looking at these pictures, though, maybe the bum zone could use some adjustment? It’s a tricky area to photograph and ASSess on one’s own. I think I would start by raising the pockets maybe a 1/2”.

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The front pockets are modified with a welt. It’s a work in progress of a rtw pocket I’m copying.

worn with a Halifax hoodie

worn with a Halifax hoodie

I really excited to use this pattern to recreate a pair of rtw linen pants in my wardrobe. I also want to look closer at Emily’s post for making jeans using Bryce and Sandbridge.


Update! After a few wears and washes, I’m finding this size, 12, to be a bit too big. I’m still very happy with my size 8 waistband and have sewn another pair of Bryces in stretch linen since this pair (blog post coming soon). I plan to sew future pair, going down 1 or possibly 2 sizes (depending on fabric stretch), but will keep using the size 8 waistband.