Willamins: a Willamette hack

IndieSew brought Shirt Month back again this February. I had renamed February GiveYOUary and declared I was only sewing for other people this month, but the #shirtmonth fomo was strong. Plus, Jessica Swift had sent me some of her incredibly gorgeous rayon from her new Art Gallery Fabrics collection, Lugu, and I knew I wanted to make myself a Willamette with my advance yardage. (I’ll be sewing a dress for Jessica in exchange for these fabrics!)

I had been eyeing the Perkins shirt dress pattern, but hadn’t pulled the trigger on buying it when I occurred to me I could approximate the look with a few mods to the Hey June pattern I already owned.

Perkins shirt dress by Ensemble Patterns

Perkins shirt dress by Ensemble Patterns

I didn’t realize the sleeve on Perkins is raglan until just now! But anyway, I wanted to imitate the gathered front shoulder and extra boxy shape.

I sewed view A in size 6. (I’m 5"‘5” with a 35/36” full bust and 38” hips.)

I removed 1.5 inches from the front shoulder, adding that same amount to the yoke in the back. This adjustment was also done to the front facing and sleeve pieces to keep all the seams aligned. When cutting the shirt front, I slashed the pattern piece mid shoulder and spread it about 6 or 8 inches. This extra width was gathered into the yoke.

upload.jpg
oh hey. This picture shows the spread was about 6.5” inches.

oh hey. This picture shows the spread was about 6.5” inches.

I used the Lumina Dusk for the yoke facing.

IMG_20190221_140249.jpg
00000PORTRAIT_00000_BURST20190223092628704.jpg

The drape on the rayon is just excellent.

00000IMG_00000_BURST20190222145344910_COVER.jpg

I did a full placket much like Tori did here except I didn’t even bother to sew the plackets down! The buttons and holes hold the plackets in place nicely.

I used the Lumina Dusk to finish the hem with bias. I use the “French” bias binding approach as demonstrated here.

IMG_20190223_092317 1.jpg
upload.jpg

These stunning silver mirrored buttons are from Arrow Mountain. (Out of stock at the time of publishing this post, but Ho-mei assures me they will restock soon! I’ve got my eye on the gold ones now!)

It’s love!! OBVIOUSLY.

It’s cute with the half tuck.

00100lPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20190222145245038_COVER.jpg

or tied!

IMG_20190222_152313 1.jpg
IMG_20190223_092545 1.jpg

Thank you Jessica for sharing your new fabric with me! Each new collection is even more beautiful than the last.

upload.jpg

THE END.

Anthro-Inspired Franken-Pants: A #sewfancypants Win

At some point in November (2018) I came across these pants on the interwebs. I instantly fell in love with the style lines and wanted to recreate them in the wine color.

The ankle button tab detail! Squee!

So I purchased the cardinal stretch chino twill offered by La Mercerie during Jess’ Black Friday Sale.

stretch_cardinal.jpg

After sewing both the Liana Stretch Jeans by Itch to Stitch and the Narcisse Pants by Deer and Doe for Sew Fancy Pants, I knew I wanted to combine aspects of both patterns to achieve the ready to wear pants of my dreams.

[Itch to Stitch and Deer and Doe were both sponsors for the Sew Fancy Pants Instagram event. I purchased the Liana pattern from UpCraft Club with my monthly credit (I have a month-to-month account) and I received the Narcisse pattern for free.]


The back of the pants are 90% Liana. I laid the Liana back pattern piece over the back of the Bryce cargo pattern (which I had also previously sewn) to eliminate the yoke.

(It’s come to my attention since winging this my own way, that there are posts out there (for example) about switching out a pattern with a yoke for one with darts, but I went the mashing route with 2 of my tried and true patterns.)

I used the patch pocket markings from Bryce to situate the welts from Narcisse and used all the back welt pocket pattern pieces and instructions from Narcisse.

IMG_20190129_120203.jpg
IMG_20190129_133328.jpg
IMG_20190202_091038.jpg

The front of my pants are also about 80% (I’m making these numbers up as I go along) Liana with a touch of Narcisse. I knew from my muslin of Liana that I would cut the front of the pants 10” up from the original hem to create the lower front vented panel. I took 2” off from the original side seam to make the side seam panel that would give birth to the front inseam pockets a la Narcisse.

IMG_20190129_124207.jpg

And here is where I made a mistake I frequently make when altering patterns. I cut my new side panel 2 1/2” (width plus seam allowance x 1) wide instead of 3” wide (width plus seam allowance x 2). Thankfully the 1/2” seam allowance was enough that I could sew the fronts with 1/4” seam allowances and not end up with a pair of pants a size too small.

00000PORTRAIT_00000_BURST20190130095834524.jpg

So anyway! The front pockets are basically inseam pockets. They sit on the seam I created between the front of the pants and the 2” wide side panel. This general approach was borrowed from Narcisse.

And the pockets are enormous! After all was said and done, the left pocket was too wide and overlapped with the front fly too much, so I trimmed it down.

Sorry this photo is too purple. White balance is for people who know what they are doing. That’s obviously not me.

Sorry this photo is too purple. White balance is for people who know what they are doing. That’s obviously not me.

This was after I removed about 3” from the top of the Narcisse front pocket pattern piece! The rise on Narcisse is higher than Liana and I just guestimated how big I would want these to be by holding the pattern piece up to my body. If I were to do it over again, I would adapt the Liana pocket stays to be compatible with an inseam construction.

Since the fly isn’t stabilized by the pockets in my pants, I interfaced the fly extensions.

IMG_20190130_104056.jpg

The lower front panel was the bottom 10 1/2” of the original Liana front. I attached it to the assembled upper front and top stitched the seam. When I closed the side seams, I simply stopped at the level of the bottom panel.

IMG_20190131_124740.jpg

I removed an inch from length at the hem so they would finish at the ankle (I am 5’ 5” tall). I also slimmed the width of both the front and back at the vent, tapering from 1” wide at the hem to nothing at the top of the vent. (I wear a size 7 shoe and this was perfect for me, but you ought to do some foot and ankle measurements if you want to be able to keep the buttons closed while taking the pants on and off. It wouldn’t be the worst thing in the world to have to open and closed the buttons, but I don’t have time for that myself!

Now comes the creative part for creating the button placket/vent feature. I polled my IG followers and mulled it over quite a bit. Folks either said they would approach it as a button fly a la Landers or they would bind the seam a la Brunswick. I don’t own the Lander pants pattern and was familiar with Brunswick having recently tested that pattern, so I went with that method.

I sewed the hem before adding the binding. My pattern piece for the binding was 4” wide by 18” (2” finished width plus seam allowance x 2 by (vent height x 2) plus (seam allowance x 2)). I hope I’m making sense! I wish I had some simple illustration skillz. I just don’t!

IMG_20190131_125836.jpg

Then they just needed a shit ton of buttons. Lucky for me, I’m a glutton and had ordered a bucket load from my favorite jeans button peddler, Citron Jeans, about 10 days prior.

00100lPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20190201134518185_COVER.jpg

These are 14mm buttons, so I used 2 for the waistband.

IMG_20190202_090655.jpg

Five on each ankle vent.

00100lPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20190202090758896_COVER.jpg

And 1 for each of the welts.

IMG_20190202_090910.jpg
IMG_20190202_090931.jpg

So 14 buttons and holes! Weee!

The end of my story is simply that I love these pants. I think they turned out pretty damn amazing.

IMG_20190202_093519.jpg
IMG_20190202_093109.jpg
IMG_20190201_170423.jpg

And my pocket bags match my Rifle Paper Co. rayon Trevi top (which I made last summer)! Kudos to that Clever gal, Colleen, for telling me to pair these 2 garments together.

IMG_20190202_093550.jpg

And they look great with my new Keds!

IMG_20190202_095204_461.jpg

I’m always happy to talk shop if you have any questions or comments. Thanks for reading!

Cropped Evergreen Jacket

I had been wearing my first Evergreen jacket a bit this fall and loving it, but also wishing I had another one… with possibly a lot less stripes, so when this sage sweatshirt fleece from Harts came into my life, I knew it was going to be great at filling that void.

00000PORTRAIT_00000_BURST20190107114042357.jpg

Now, I’m not sure I would call the color of this sweatshirt fleece “sage” myself. It’s more on the army green spectrum to me. But it’s a lovely color and it’s got a soft knit face and fluffy brushed goodness inside. It’s neither too drapey nor too stiff. Basically it’s pretty damn good stuff.

00100lPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20190108091604734_COVER.jpg

Since I had made an Evergreen jacket before, I did have some changes I wanted to make to this version. Mostly, I knew I wanted a more fitted little jacket. (More on that later.) And I took my time adding some details; some seams have an extra row of top stitching and I decided to quilt the yokes for some tonal texture. And, if you know me, you know I love texture.

IMG_20190108_111703.jpg

I typically use a stitch length of 2.8 for my top stitching and I used a stitching length of 3.0 for the quilted lines. I can’t remember the last time I used a walking foot on knits. I find those clunky things too… well…. clunky.

I pulled these adorable cuties from my stash to use for the pocket bags on the zippered pockets.

IMG_20190108_111711.jpg

The zippers were sourced from Wawak. Evergreen calls for a separating jacket zipper and 2 regular zippers for the pockets. I went with the antique brass finish and army green zipper tape. I’d say they are a good match and look cohesive.

00000PORTRAIT_00000_BURST20190111100224947.jpg

Zippers can be intimidating, but since I learned how to shorten metal zippers last year by simply pulling extra teeth from the top, I’m not scared anymore. Bring on the fancy zippered projects!

The major departure I took from the pattern as written was to opt for a cropped look. I just skipped all the hem band pieces and installed the bottom of the main zipper 3/8” from the bottom of the front pieces. The seam allowance at the bottom left me room to finish the bottom of the jacket with a hem facing I planned to draft.

IMG_20190111_104747.jpg

Now, once I got the main jacket assembled I shared my progress on IG. I wasn’t sure how I wanted to finish the sleeves as far as the style or length.

The popular opinion was to add elongated sleeve cuffs. But I was itching to crop the sleeves. When Adrianna, the pattern designer, weighed in, the fate of the sleeves was sealed. I was going cropped.

Adrianna.JPG

So I determined where I wanted the finished sleeves to fall (mid forearm; is that 3/4 length?) and ended up shortening the sleeve from the hem by 2”.

Then I set to making simple button cuffs. My drafted cuff pattern follows- 2” wide by measured sleeve circumference + (seam allowance x 2). (Roughly 2” x 10.5”.) Cut 4 of fabric. Cut 4 of interfacing.

IMG_20190112_101915.jpg

I lazily chose 2” for the cuff height because I love to use this 2” wide tricot on a roll for interfacing whenever I can.

I opened the seam between the front and back sleeve parts about 2 inches and bound the little placket area with a coordinating woven (coincidentally it was scraps from other Hey June this project). Popped on my simple cuffs and added the buttons and holes.

Gratuitous pic of my button cuff-related gear, so I can say, “these are few of my favorite tooools…”

yes. it’s a kid-sized hammer from Lowe’s

yes. it’s a kid-sized hammer from Lowe’s

In lieu of a facing I opted to simply serge and hem the bottom of the jacket.

IMG_20190113_125818.jpg
IMG_20190113_125617.jpg

So here’s something fun that happened. I realized just after finishing both cuffs that I had only shortened 1 sleeve. Yup. One sleeve was 2” longer than the other. The left one, if you must know.

Honestly, it wasn’t terribly noticeable unless you measured the sleeves. I tend to push them up a tad anyhow. And again with the honesty, I seriously considered leaving the jacket as is until it bothered me.

At some point the next day, after a stewing in my mistake overnight, I realized I wouldn’t have to completely redo the whole cuff. I could simply undo the stitching at the sleeve edge, shorten the sleeve, and reattach the cuff with top stitching. The buttonhole and button would be spared. Well yes, you’re right. I’d have to redo the little placket again too.

And so I did all that and used my zipper foot to get around the cherished button I had grown so fond of.

IMG_20190113_091339.jpg
IMG_20190113_130159.jpg

And that’s the story.

00000IMG_00000_BURST20190113125943364_COVER.jpg

I love to wear this jacket over sleeveless tops and I know it’s going to be perfect for spring layering.

IMG_20190113_124446.jpg
IMG_20190113_124751.jpg
Cowl neck top pattern, testing sample- Taos Top by  Thread Bear

Cowl neck top pattern, testing sample- Taos Top by Thread Bear

My quilting worked out really nicely on one side. The other side is lovely too, just not its own photo on the blog lovely.

IMG_20190113_130121.jpg
IMG_20190113_124458.jpg

I love seeing them side by side. So similar and yet so different!

IMG_20190113_124505.jpg
IMG_20190113_131304.jpg

Both jackets are the same size. I find that because the striped fabric (ponte) has more stretch, it often feels much more relaxed, like a stylish sweatshirt more than a trendy jacket.

2018 Guest Blog Posts!

I wrote a few posts as a guest on some great sewing blogs this year and possibly neglected my blog from time to time. That is the beauty of the Maybe Blog, though. No pressure, you know? At any rate, I’m I’m linking to my posts across the webs here in a patting my own back exercise. #noshame

Woven Pixie Tee

Chalk & Notch’s Pixie Tee is as great in woven fabric as it is in knits.


Metallic Kaufman linen and Art Gallery cotton for the lining. LOVE.


I added a little something to the back of this Cheyenne. All the details, my favorite tools for sewing button-ups, and my tips for success are in the guest post.


Another Pixie tee hack, this one for cooler weather. So cozy and very simple to add a cowl. Gabriela even has a downloadable reference for the mods.


Pleats make everything better! Right?


This one is probably my favorite, but maybe I say that about every fresh-off-the-machine make. ;)

Hey June Brunswick Pullover

My heart skipped about 4 beats when I got the opportunity to test a pattern for Adrianna, the genius behind Hey June Handmade. It’s hard for me to think of an HJ pattern that I haven’t sewn.

Let’s talk Brunswick!

I made a size 10 as per my high bust measurement of 35” and 39” hips. Brunswick is certainly oversized, as you can gather from the finished garment measurements, and has a dramatic drop shoulder with several interchangeable style options.

Line and charts.JPG

The perfect fabric was waiting right in my stash, aspiring to become something amazing. It was actually slated to become a Love Notions Whistler (which I have never sewn), but I’m really glad Brunswick came along at just the right time.

Enabler Alert- They have navy and coral too.

Enabler Alert- They have navy and coral too.

At any rate, this chunky double knit has a little bit more stretch (about 30%) than suggested for Brunswick, but it’s quite stable.

I opted to sew the hood and side plackets.

IMG_20181109_124831.jpg

The side plackets are a little more involved than the details on a basic sweatshirt, but that’s (part of) what makes Brunswick great.

IMG_20181109_124842.jpg

I lined the hood with a delicious End of Bolt sweatshirt fleece from LA Finch Fabrics. (Pro tip: really great goodies in the Finch EOBs just waiting to be rescued. I pretty much start all my fabric shopping there.) My cut was only a tad bit more than a yard. You better believe I laid out my pieces in hopes of making a full sweatshirt from this stuff, but I had to stop deluding myself and just use it for the hood.

IMG_20181109_080850.jpg

I still need to find just the right lace or drawstring for my hood. I’m possibly a bit obsessed with the details on Brunswick.

IMG_20181109_125249.jpg
IMG_20181109_125151.jpg

I used 4 oversized (30mm) wooden buttons on the side plackets. Love that pop of Rifle Paper fabric.

IMG_20181109_100503.jpg

I slimmed the sleeve body from the elbow down and removed 1.5” from the cuff width as well. This is fitting modification is outlined in the pattern alterations section.

The final pattern was modified slightly from this testing version; there’s an added cropped cut line (1.5" shorter), the sleeves were shorted by 1", and the cowl (alternate view) was widened by 2" in both directions.

helpers gonna help

helpers gonna help

Here’s some Brunswick rtw inspiration from around the webs to get you inspired-

It is, of course, completely up to you and your fabric whether you choose to size down or make an oversized Orb of Comfort (TM) as Adrianna intended. I do recommend finding a cozy knit with not much stretch and going for the gold, though.

00000IMG_00000_BURST20181109100532187_COVER.jpg

See Adrianna’s Brunswick release post for more details and go ahead and leave me a comment if you have any questions!

Linen Bryce Cargo Joggers

I only started sewing pants and jeans this year and let me tell you how incredible it feels to wear outfits that are top to bottom self-sewn.

20180929_103702.jpg

My hack of the Bryce Cargos was borne from my desire to recreate a pair of ready to wear (rtw) linen pants I have. These pants have a zip fly, cargo details, darts for waist shaping in the back, and a jogger-style elastic cuff.

I had (somewhat foolishly) tried using a woven jogger pattern first (Tierras), but of course there was a lot of extra fabric and ease, so they could be pulled on. I often need to grade the waist of my pants down to fit my waist (or up to fit my derriere, depending on your perspective), so naturally, I can get a better fit with a more tailored style.  

I really wanted to make sure the welt patch pocket detail on the rtw pants was a feature on my recreation. Take a closer look at how cool they are.

20180930_084650.jpg

When I asked Adrianna, the beauty and brains behind Hey June Handmade, if she thought the Bryce pattern would work for non-stretch pants, she enthusiastically said it was very possible, because she had already done it! (But hasn’t shared them yet.)

While I was making my stretch twill Bryce Cargos, I laid my rtw linen pants over the unaltered pattern and could tell I was on the right track already.

20180929_140150.jpg

In choosing a size for non-stretch fabric*, I went with the size that fits my waist well (8) and went up 2 sizes (12) for the remainder of the pattern. I simply took the top of the pants in slightly to fit the smaller waistband.

* My fabric actually does have some some spandex in it and is described as having 5% stretch aka not much, so for all intents and purposes, let’s just say it’s non-stretch

20181010_110400.jpg

The basic approach to these joggers was to trace off (a big deal if you know me) the pants front (with the pocket facing overlaid to eliminate the slash pockets) and back, widening the legs straight from the hips and then to taper them slightly at the knee point. I eliminated the knee darts in the front, adjusting the length accordingly. At the hems, squared up the bottom 1.5 inches to become the casing for 1-inch elastic.

20181010_135003.jpg

The welt pocket pattern piece came directly from the original pocket pattern piece, folded on the fold line.

IMG_20181114_120858.jpg

The construction of the welt pockets was fun (and by fun I mean challenging) to figure out. I don’t have a lot of experience sewing welts, but after a few scrappy trials, I figured them out with the help of this post.

I’m not very interested in writing out all the details here. #sorrynotsorry It would have been a snooze-fest. I’m more than happy, however, to answer questions if you happen to have any.

After creating the welt pocket, it’s simply a matter of sewing the pocket to the pants front as a patch. Press the bottom and inside edges to the wrong side and top stitch the pocket in place.

20181016_095738.jpg

I think my end result is pretty close to my inspiration pair. They do sit higher on my waist, but that is good; the rtw pair is constantly falling down.

IMG_20181103_095002.jpg

And they have pretty guts.

00000IMG_00000_BURST20181114114324575_COVER.jpg

I love that these pants can be styled in a multitude of ways from a bit dressy to rather casual.

worn with a Cheyenne tunic

worn with a Cheyenne tunic

IMG_20181103_102433.jpg
modeled with a sweater knit Lane raglan

modeled with a sweater knit Lane raglan

IMG_20181103_102650 (2).jpg

Now that I’ve tasted success with my $5 linen, I’ll be using some more expensive fabric next. I like the Avery linen La Mercerie carries and as well as this (sold out) rust colored linen from Blackbird. A friend picked up a very similar linen for me at Mood recently.

I found Emily’s tutorial on the Hey June blog while I was working on writing this post. Check it out if you’re interested in an alternative approach to Bryce joggers.

Very Wearable Muslin: Bryce Cargo Pants

bryce lines.JPG

I must have just started sewing pants at the beginning of this year and binged on a few views of Ginger jeans, Morgans, Jamie jeans, as well as Birkins just before the Bryce cargos released. So I must have been over pants sewing and thought I didn’t need another pants pattern. Hello. I was rather wrong.

Pockets and knee darts aside, I also don’t think I realized the style lines were different than most jeans or pants patterns with a yoke in the back. Bryce cargos don’t have one, but instead achieve waist fitting through darts and a 3 piece waistband. That waistband is curved just right. Simple rectangular waistbands don’t seem to fit curvy bodies nearly so well.

So anyway! I’m here to tell you that I loved sewing these pants and that fitting them was very straightforward for me.

My body measurements (30” waist and 40” hips) put me right in a size 12, so I started right there.

I used a rather nice navy stretch twill from LA Finch Fabrics from my stash. My records say I purchased 2 yards and it was exactly what I needed (note- I omitted flaps on all the pockets and modified the front pockets slightly, but I still think it was the perfect amount).

#feetforscale

#feetforscale

This is all I had left after re-cutting the waistband including the facing (more on that to follow).

So I basted the pants (minus waistband) before doing any construction and they looked and felt pretty good so I went forward with cutting all the pieces, assembling, and finishing as per the directions along the way. With cargo pockets on the sides just above the knees, the outseams are completed before the inseams. That’s all good, but it is often a seam I make fit adjustments along, so I would definitely muslin or baste these pants without worrying about the pockets first.

It’s very common for me to need to adjust the back waist on pants so they don’t gap. I simply took in a small wedge right along the center back seam that in effect removed about an inch total. The directions give advise on adjusting the waist in 2 fashions- taking in the waist at the side seams and adjusting and adding back darts (or a combination or these for more than 2” of adjustment). So I probably should have taken from the side seams, but it was just so easy to adjust the center back seam.

I love, love, love the finishing on the waistband. These are the first pair of pants I’ve sewn using a bias binding in this manner and trying new techniques is something I really enjoy when sewing different patterns.

waistband facing with bias binding

waistband facing with bias binding

Now, the size 12 waistband seemed to fit my pants fine even though I had adjusted the waist so I went ahead and sewed it on and finished the pants with the exception of the button and buttonhole. Buttonholes are not something I undertake late at night.

Hot damn, though. They really were too big at the waist. I shouldn’t have been surprised. I hadn’t adjusted the waistband even though I had adjusted the pants at the waist. So I slept on how I was going to tackle a fix. I really liked the material and how the pants had turned out so I was willing to put in the effort to make them more wearable.

Simplest fix really- I pulled the waistband completely off, printed a size 8 waistband, recut and assembled fresh (it was just as much a treat the second time around). Now, I’m here to tell you my Bryce cargos fit much better (shocking, I know) and I love them.

20181003_085548.jpg

I’m 5’ 5” and I made no adjustments to the length.

Proof that I put a button on ;)

Proof that I put a button on ;)

worn with a Trevi top

worn with a Trevi top

Looking at these pictures, though, maybe the bum zone could use some adjustment? It’s a tricky area to photograph and ASSess on one’s own. I think I would start by raising the pockets maybe a 1/2”.

20181003_085529.jpg

The front pockets are modified with a welt. It’s a work in progress of a rtw pocket I’m copying.

worn with a Halifax hoodie

worn with a Halifax hoodie

I really excited to use this pattern to recreate a pair of rtw linen pants in my wardrobe. I also want to look closer at Emily’s post for making jeans using Bryce and Sandbridge.


Update! After a few wears and washes, I’m finding this size, 12, to be a bit too big. I’m still very happy with my size 8 waistband and have sewn another pair of Bryces in stretch linen since this pair (blog post coming soon). I plan to sew future pair, going down 1 or possibly 2 sizes (depending on fabric stretch), but will keep using the size 8 waistband.

A Tale of 2 Cheyennes

I'm havin' sew much fun (#sorrynotsorry) sewing 2 different versions of the Cheyenne Tunic pattern by Hey June that I decided I wanted to put the details on the blog (I'm otherwise pretty horrible at taking notes) and I'll be adding to this post to keep time with the sew along that Grace of Maker Mountain is hosting. (Note- the sew along has ended, but I'm sure Grace will host another. If you're in her FB group or follow her on IG you can catch the next one.)

This isn't my first time in the Cheyenne rodeo. I made this white one last fall; it's a crisp, tight twill. So, I haven't tried all the views and options, and I just love joining sew alongs and other sewing challenges for the extra sewcial support. (I owe Grace a big thank you for pushing me to sew my first Lane raglan when she hosted a sew along for that pattern.)


Day 1-

The first day was about picking fabric, size and options. I pulled a few fabrics from my stash that were speaking to me and polled the InstaCrowd to help me decide. 

My measurements are- chest 36" (high bust 35"), waist 29/30", hips 39/40" and I chose to prep my pattern in size small. I shortened the long sleeve pattern piece 1" somewhat arbitrarily as the suggestion is for petites to remove 2" and I'm 5'5".

I printed both views and all the pattern options just to have them. The only thing I knew for sure was that I wanted to try making a sleeveless Cheyenne using the mods outined on the Hey June blog. It sounds easy enough! And since I own and have sewn Biscayne, I used that pattern as my guide for the new armscyes.


20180306_154245.jpg

Day 2-

Just cutting and interfacing today. Yeah. No big deal.

Except it took me forever. I ended up deciding to use a light windowpane plaid I found in my stash (Yup. Not one of the original 4 I pulled.) for a full button-up, collared version with long sleeves. And I tried to strategize plaid matching having not eaten lunch. Yeesh. A headache ensued.

I was confused by the interfacing instructions for the long sleeve cuffs. The cuffs are 'cut 2 on fold' and the interfacing is 'cut 1 on fold.' Well, you need to then cut the interfacing in half so you can interface one half of each cuff. Cutting 2 of the interfacing NOT on the fold jives with my brain better. So after scratching my head a bit and studying the instructions, that's how I did it.

20180306_214355.jpg

I had to cut my bonus Cheyenne (vintage floral chambray) after getting some adulting out of the way so this photo was taken at night. (Makes it feel a bit like a day and night challenge, and I'm still giggling about that.) I opted for the half placket (popover) view, modified to be sleeveless. It was such a joy cutting this out with pretty much zero regard to the pattern on the fabric. I hope I did it right!


Day 3-

Isn't that chambray gorgeous in daylight?

Isn't that chambray gorgeous in daylight?

Plackets today. Well. plackets can be pretty tricky so I'm thankful for the sew along on the Hey June blog for these steps. I didn't know the sew along existed until after I had sewn my first Cheyenne way back when and boy was I kicking myself for not thinking to check for it then. 

You could add buttonholes and buttons at this point. I'm a fan of choosing button placement when you've got a more finished garment that you can try on and can test the button locations by pinning, so I held off.

I shortened the placket pieces for the half placket by an inch and a half (and cut the center slit shorter by the same amount) since I recall the placket being a bit long on my frame in my previous Cheyenne.

Ultimately, I wasn't sure which buttons I was going to use, so I'm letting my options percolate a bit more.

The gingham ones might just be perfect or too over the top. It's a fine line.

20180307_133457.jpg

Day 4-

First they were burritos.

20180308_134929.jpg

And then they were practically shirts!

20180308_172838.jpg

Along the way, there was a very happy moment when I turned the flannel one and discovered this happy accident here.

20180308_135652.jpg
20180308_132616.jpg

But I also discovered the front and back side seams on the chambray version were not the same length. Somehow when I adjusted the armscye to make it sleeveless I ended up changing the side seam length. Or maybe I just cut the front at the shirt line and the back at tunic. Who knows. Anyway, it wasn't anything my rotary cutter couldn't fix. 


Day 5-

Very little progress. I think I was busy trying to cull my large fabric stores (aka destash).

This sleeve placket is all I have to show.

20180309_160503.jpg

Day 6, aka The Finish-

It all finally came together. I set the sleeves on the flannel version. 

20180310_145846.jpg
20180310_134110.jpg

I basted the side seams and tried her on and decided to alter the hem line a tad. I scooped out side using my dressmaker's curve as a guide. Then finished the hem with chambray bias. Just because I liked adding those little hints of chambray.

20180310_145948.jpg

Added the cuffs, buttonholes and buttons. She's ready to show off tomorrow!

The sleeveless version had a lot less work left. Just the hem, side seams, and armscye finishing. I like to do French bias binding most often. Here's my go to tutorial when I need a refresher. She just needs one snap to keep the placket closed. I'll sew it on tomorrow. Because hand-sewing is not my favorite sewing.

20180310_231339.jpg

Day 7- Show it off

20180311_093747.jpg

and it's safe to say I love it.

20180311_093851.jpg
20180311_093831.jpg

I really love the extra scoop out of the hem in this longer length.

20180311_094112.jpg
20180311_094133.jpg

(Are my sleeves too long? The cuff hangs past my wrist. Although I had shortened them an inch, I wonder if I might be able to improve the fit a bit more.)

Pardon the wrinkles. I did my pictures in the wrong order, having worn it first to ihop for breakfast (nom!) and then did my flat, detail shots.

20180311_130435.jpg
20180311_130430.jpg

The finish is just superb. You could practically wear Cheyenne inside out.

20180311_130325.jpg

The (bonus!) sleeveless one. It came out a wee bit snug across the chest, which is my fault and a result of how I modified the armscye. I think I also raised it a tad too much. But it's still very wearable. I just had to hand stitch a snap inside the placket this morning. (I opened my hoarded Thread Heaven!)

20180311_131021.jpg
20180311_134357.jpg

This one is cut to shirt length and has a simple tiny hem.

20180311_134328.jpg

I'd love to hear any tips you might have on improving my finish on the collar of this version. It's rather bulky at the corners. 

20180308_172729.jpg

I'll leave with 2 things. First- my favorite outtake. I really shouldn't try to be suave.

20180311_095106.jpg

And second- check out all the other great Cheyennes made for the sew along and shared on IG under the tag #mmfsewscheyenne! It was really a lot of fun seeing so many different permutations of this pattern come together over the past week. Thanks again, Grace! I look forward to the next one. 

New Favorite Halifax

Does every new thing you make suddenly become your new favorite thing? It happens to me almost every time. (I'm excluding my Stubborn Sewist makes, naturally. I don't want to talk about those.) 

Anyhoozle, I sewed another view of the Halifax hoodie pattern last night (finally). I previously played with view E because I love the diagonal side seams. I used some luscious modal French terry from La Finch fabrics, one of the fabrics chosen for February's #letssewthistogether. 

2018-03-03.png
20180216_120342.jpg

Now, I know it's March, but February is short and I had a bit of a sickness come over me in February. I was bitten by the No Fear New Jeans bug that spread rapidly after being introduced by Closet Case. I'm digressing as per usual.

Back to my new favorite Halifax!

20180303_082032.jpg

I lined the hood and the pockets with a light weight white sweater-y rib.

20180303_082121.jpg
20180303_082214.jpg

This made the pockets a bit bulky where the zipper is attached, but I'm still very happy with the overall outcome.

20180303_082321.jpg

My favorite detail is the twill tape used to finish the zipper. I honestly wasn't expecting this because I'm guilty of not reading through the pattern instructions before starting a project. So it was late last night when I got to the steps for installing the zipper and, well, this was the twill tape I had on hand. I love it. It's details like these that really make making your own clothes rewarding. (One word of caution on this twill tape. It's the first time I've used this particular one in clothing so I can't attest to how it holds up with laundering.)

I would love to get some personalized twill tape to use for future makes. Wanna recommend a vendor (from etsy, for example)?

And I love how it fits! I cut a straight size small after sewing several in size medium and finding them pretty over-sized. (Body measurements- bust 36", hips 40".) I also find that the shoulders are a tad wide for me on Hey June patterns, so I shave 1/2" off the armscye.

20180303_083220.jpg

I used a two-way jacket zip, because I think they're fun and they add a little bit more bling.

20180303_083141.jpg
20180303_083118.jpg
ready to wear inspiration

ready to wear inspiration

I think the only other little tweak I'd do for my next one is to make the bottom band one continuous piece instead of having seams at the side seams. And I do plan to make another one immediately. I've got some brushed poly with extra lycra that's very similar in fiber content to a rtw hoodie I received for Christmas.

20180303_083457.jpg

Thanks for stopping by!