Admittedly I've purchased linen a few times and yet I frequently feel like I have no idea what garments to make with it. I want to love linen, but it strikes me as taking 2 forms: either crisp or completely wrinkled.
Now, I'm talking about linen +/- cotton. Robert Kaufman markets their blend as Essex. When linen is blended with rayon or other fibers with lovely drape, it’s a bit of a different creature. I’ve used Essex for bag making, but I know linen can be great for garments, too. It’s just a matter of finding the right pattern. My first instinct was to make a Cheyenne, but I have simple white and blue plaid one already and I felt like the overall blouse would look too similar.
So, I’m proud to say this windowpane Essex (purchased from Raspberry Creek Fabrics) only aged a year in my stash before I figured out what to pair it with: Hey June Handmade’s Lucerne. I tested Lucerne earlier this year and have sewn it several times since.
Being fall here, I used the bell sleeves from Phoenix. (It’s not a secret that the sleeves from Phoenix and Amalfi fit on Lucerne, but I haven’t seen very many people playing with these options.)
Lucerne + Phoenix = Lucernix
I made a couple modifications to suit myself: added a back yoke, widened the lower back, added a faux button placket in the front, and altered the front neckline facing.
(The writing of this blog post was interrupted by the need to purchase the Sheridan Sweater ASAP. #fangirlforever)
Back changes
Adding a yoke is as easy as slicing the back pattern piece in 2 sections and adding the seam allowance to each side of the cut line. My cut line would be between the 2 lines marked in the image below. I simply fold the back pattern piece. The yoke and its facing were cut on the fold above the red line. Likewise, the back was cut on the fold below the purple line. I added 3 inches to the lower back by cutting it 1.5 inches away from the fold. The extra ease was taken up into a pleat at the center when joining it to the yokes.
back pattern piece showing new cut lines for yoke and lower back
Front changes
I added the faux button placket first, followed by the modified facing, which was narrowed and stitched fully in place. I trimmed the width of the original facing, removing about 1.5 inches and turned the outer edge under.
modified front neckline facing
With the front neckline finished and the back yoke with its lining attached, one performs the commonly-termed burrito roll.
yum! a burrito
And voila! Wonderfully enclosed neckline and shoulder seams!
Hem and attach sleeves. (I Frenched these.) Boom. A delightful blouse.
worn with self-sewn Ginger Jeans
I cut the main front and back as well as the sleeves on the bias so the fabric would be able to drape a smidge more.
My Lucernix made the cut when packing for a recent trip to NYC and I actually wore her twice there.
and here’s the beer I enjoyed while flying home in my Lucernix
RBF happens
I will say the only thing that bothers me about this top, which is also the case for almost all statement-sleeved tops, is that the sleeves bunch up when I put another layer on top. Overall, though, I’m very pleased with the top and I will definitely make more of this combination.
Watch out, dearest stash linen, I’m coming for you!