Harts Street Team! Adrienne!

Harts Fabric somewhat recently introduced their Street Team and I’m excited to be in this group of fun and talented sewists! #imnotworthy

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I did want to take a moment before I sharing my first project to explain what it means to be on the team. It means that Harts sends me fabric to work with and often patterns and possibly some notions. It doesn’t mean I get paid or reimbursed monetarily otherwise. I don’t have any affiliate links (with Harts or any other companies). There’s a quick little disclosure on my blog that many folks have probably never seen.

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It appears in a column on the right, below links to the most recent blog posts. As most folks are browsing via their smart phones, they never see this column due to the simplified format of the mobile-friendly site.

But that’s it. It’s not complicated. I’m not profiting. So I won’t be marking my Harts Street Team contributions as ads or sponsored. I will mark that content with our official tag, #hartsstreetteam and I will always be honest about everything I share.

So thank you, Harts, for your generosity. I’m thrilled to partner with you in sharing a love of fabric and sewing. Let’s get to Adrienne!


This was my first time working with a pattern from Friday Pattern Company. Obviously, I love that the pattern is a PDF file and has LAYERS. (Thank you, sweet baby Jesus for that.) There’s sweet little encouraging notes in the margins between the pattern pieces and those certainly put a smile on my face too. It felt almost wrong to cut them off!

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With a full bust around 35/36” depending on the bra, waist 29-ish” depending on the meal, and hips about 37”, I chose do do a straight size medium. Many of the examples of this blouse on Instagram appear very fitted throughout the entire torso, so that’s something I considered when choosing the size. (The pattern doesn’t supply a finished hip measurement.)

The fabric I received from Harts is a blush modal jersey. The modal part was the selling point. And it’s pink! I suddenly wear pink now and can’t seem to get enough.

Those thoughtful folks also sent 1/2” elastic, matching thread and stretch needles!

Those thoughtful folks also sent 1/2” elastic, matching thread and stretch needles!

I wish you could feel like stuff. It’s super soft and has a cool hand. I don’t know what it is about this knit, but it also has a woven feel to it. So unique! It’s a wee bit thick, but not so much as a ponte.

Adrienne is super simple really. The front and back pieces are the same, and the sleeves are cut on the fold. This makes for really quick sewing. The front and back necklines gets a simple band to finish, while there’s a casing for elastic at the top of the sleeves.

Hello, gorgeous!

Hello, gorgeous!

I used both my serger and sewing machine to construct this blouse.

I love a good thread blend!

I love a good thread blend!

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One modification I made was to cut the sleeve hem elastic 2” shorter than recommended. At the full elastic length, I found the sleeve wanted to get hung up on my elbow.

My blouse hem is only 1/4” (serged and turned once) because I wanted to keep as much length as possible. (I’m 5’5” tall, average, really!) It was just right like this, so I would consider adding some length to the bodice next time to have at full 1/2” hem.

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Oh, the drama of that sleeve! It’s everything I’d been coveting on everyone’s Adriennes for months!

Just point me in the direction of the nearest Renaissance fair, please!

Just point me in the direction of the nearest Renaissance fair, please!

I slimmed the side seam a tad below the waist. This lightly structured fabric wanted to hang away from my body a bit too much. I would consider going down a size all around if using very drapey or lax fabric such as rayon spandex. It also would be great to combine this pattern with a bodysuit to hold it tucked into high-waisted jeans.

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The blush color is a great match with my suede booties and I see these 2 items getting pairs together frequently this fall.

THANKS, HARTS!!

THANKS, HARTS!!

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Harts had gifted me materials prior to the official Street Team designation. Those projects were previously blogged- Ailakki top, Flint pants, Evergreen jacket, and “Kendra” jumpsuit.

Heyyy, Kendra!

So this make is a looooong time coming. I had planned to make a version of an Anthroplogie jumpsuit since March (?) when the #sewbibs challenge started. I remember being quite thankful the challenge was running through mid-April. I had plenty of time!! LOADS OF TIME.

Yeah. So it’s June now. Hey June June. Don’t ask me what happened to the last 3 months. I quite literally don’t know. But here’s what I do know. I made that jumpsuit. My way. And it is practically nothing like the original jumpsuit I set out to make.

So. The fabric. The amazing Harts crew sent me some of the Robert Kaufman Santa Cruz twill in moss. Obviously it’s not pink. But I picked it out before I decided pink was a color I’d wear. (I’ve since made a pink jacket and 2 pink shirts…It’s been 3 months. People change.) THANKS, HARTS! Sorry, I took an eon on this project.

And. The patterns. Fiona Sundress and Kendrick Overalls. Harts also supplied the Fiona pattern. And I tried my best to work with the tissue pattern. But I’m a PDF pattern girl and I just CANNOT handle tissue patterns. The are scary just like spiders. So I sold the paper pattern and bought the PDF. And my life got 4000 percent* better.

Princess seams and buttons up the front. I was on the right track here. I muslined view A of Fiona in white stretch twill.

Then I started on the bottom portion using the Kendricks pants. Now if one went back and looked at the style lines on the Anthro inspo, they have little pleats in the front. I wasn’t so much interested in that, nor slash pockets. They always gape. No thanks.

I cut the Kendrick pants straight up without the hip pockets as I planned to add the beautiful patch pockets from Fiona here. Given I measure 29” at the waist and 37” for hips and I had non-stretch fabric, I choose to start with size 8. After a quick baste fit of the 8, while neglecting to read where it says in the directions that the outseam has a full 1” seam allowance, I found them to be miles too big. I decided to reprint and start with size 4. I’d have lots of room in the outseam to adjust if necessary. Ultimately, the 4 was a much better place to start.

At some point I remembered the back of the jumpsuit as having cross over straps and so for some reason I switched to using the view B bodice from Fiona. I think at this point the jumpsuit had sold out so there weren’t many pictures to consult and I had a temporary moment of insanity. I mean why would I have muslined the other view if I ultimately intended to use a different one? I just can’t explain it.

why, Loni? why?

why, Loni? why?

To attach the Fiona top to the Kendricks bottoms, I simply sandwiched the top seam of the waistband/waistband facing, lining up the side seams. Top stitching the waistband facing finished it all off

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So my jumpsuit doesn’t look THAT MUCH like the original one I set out to copy. It’s not pink. The straps and back cut are differently and the pants are not at all the same style. No flare.

But it’s done!

I made this!

I made this!

Kinda cute?

I realized that wedgie was a pain in the ass and something ought to be done about it.

#lowbuttsewwhat

#lowbuttsewwhat

A quick low seat adjustment helped!

before and after a low seat adjustment

before and after a low seat adjustment

It looks like I moved the pockets down too, but I hadn’t! It’s just the magic of that little scoop of the back crotch curve.

The legs were slimmed quite a bit from the original silhouette of Kendrick. I pulled a full inch off the outseam of both the front and back leg starting at the hem and tapering back to the original seam allowance at the bottom of the patch pocket.

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I kinda wish I had brained how to do a zipper in the back or one of the side seams. It’s a lot of buttons to undo if you’re needing to use the loo. (I’ve been watching Fleabag, you?)

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I had added 5 inches to the hem length from the outset since wanted them to be full length, but I think I prefer them rolled. They probably ended up at the same length as originally designed. #alwaystrustadrianna

The finishing for both patterns is fab.

The bias trim on the edge of the waistband facing is not done “right” per se, but it’s done.

The bias trim on the edge of the waistband facing is not done “right” per se, but it’s done.

I used Citron Jeans buttons because they are the. best. period.

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So I’m glad I saw this vision through. Even if it’s a few months late for #sewbibs, it’s 50% Hey June!

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*hyperbole never

Cropped Evergreen Jacket

I had been wearing my first Evergreen jacket a bit this fall and loving it, but also wishing I had another one… with possibly a lot less stripes, so when this sage sweatshirt fleece from Harts came into my life, I knew it was going to be great at filling that void.

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Now, I’m not sure I would call the color of this sweatshirt fleece “sage” myself. It’s more on the army green spectrum to me. But it’s a lovely color and it’s got a soft knit face and fluffy brushed goodness inside. It’s neither too drapey nor too stiff. Basically it’s pretty damn good stuff.

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Since I had made an Evergreen jacket before, I did have some changes I wanted to make to this version. Mostly, I knew I wanted a more fitted little jacket. (More on that later.) And I took my time adding some details; some seams have an extra row of top stitching and I decided to quilt the yokes for some tonal texture. And, if you know me, you know I love texture.

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I typically use a stitch length of 2.8 for my top stitching and I used a stitching length of 3.0 for the quilted lines. I can’t remember the last time I used a walking foot on knits. I find those clunky things too… well…. clunky.

I pulled these adorable cuties from my stash to use for the pocket bags on the zippered pockets.

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The zippers were sourced from Wawak. Evergreen calls for a separating jacket zipper and 2 regular zippers for the pockets. I went with the antique brass finish and army green zipper tape. I’d say they are a good match and look cohesive.

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Zippers can be intimidating, but since I learned how to shorten metal zippers last year by simply pulling extra teeth from the top, I’m not scared anymore. Bring on the fancy zippered projects!

The major departure I took from the pattern as written was to opt for a cropped look. I just skipped all the hem band pieces and installed the bottom of the main zipper 3/8” from the bottom of the front pieces. The seam allowance at the bottom left me room to finish the bottom of the jacket with a hem facing I planned to draft.

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Now, once I got the main jacket assembled I shared my progress on IG. I wasn’t sure how I wanted to finish the sleeves as far as the style or length.

The popular opinion was to add elongated sleeve cuffs. But I was itching to crop the sleeves. When Adrianna, the pattern designer, weighed in, the fate of the sleeves was sealed. I was going cropped.

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So I determined where I wanted the finished sleeves to fall (mid forearm; is that 3/4 length?) and ended up shortening the sleeve from the hem by 2”.

Then I set to making simple button cuffs. My drafted cuff pattern follows- 2” wide by measured sleeve circumference + (seam allowance x 2). (Roughly 2” x 10.5”.) Cut 4 of fabric. Cut 4 of interfacing.

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I lazily chose 2” for the cuff height because I love to use this 2” wide tricot on a roll for interfacing whenever I can.

I opened the seam between the front and back sleeve parts about 2 inches and bound the little placket area with a coordinating woven (coincidentally it was scraps from other Hey June this project). Popped on my simple cuffs and added the buttons and holes.

Gratuitous pic of my button cuff-related gear, so I can say, “these are few of my favorite tooools…”

yes. it’s a kid-sized hammer from Lowe’s

yes. it’s a kid-sized hammer from Lowe’s

In lieu of a facing I opted to simply serge and hem the bottom of the jacket.

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So here’s something fun that happened. I realized just after finishing both cuffs that I had only shortened 1 sleeve. Yup. One sleeve was 2” longer than the other. The left one, if you must know.

Honestly, it wasn’t terribly noticeable unless you measured the sleeves. I tend to push them up a tad anyhow. And again with the honesty, I seriously considered leaving the jacket as is until it bothered me.

At some point the next day, after a stewing in my mistake overnight, I realized I wouldn’t have to completely redo the whole cuff. I could simply undo the stitching at the sleeve edge, shorten the sleeve, and reattach the cuff with top stitching. The buttonhole and button would be spared. Well yes, you’re right. I’d have to redo the little placket again too.

And so I did all that and used my zipper foot to get around the cherished button I had grown so fond of.

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And that’s the story.

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I love to wear this jacket over sleeveless tops and I know it’s going to be perfect for spring layering.

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Cowl neck top pattern, testing sample- Taos Top by  Thread Bear

Cowl neck top pattern, testing sample- Taos Top by Thread Bear

My quilting worked out really nicely on one side. The other side is lovely too, just not its own photo on the blog lovely.

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I love seeing them side by side. So similar and yet so different!

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Both jackets are the same size. I find that because the striped fabric (ponte) has more stretch, it often feels much more relaxed, like a stylish sweatshirt more than a trendy jacket.

2018 Guest Blog Posts!

I wrote a few posts as a guest on some great sewing blogs this year and possibly neglected my blog from time to time. That is the beauty of the Maybe Blog, though. No pressure, you know? At any rate, I’m I’m linking to my posts across the webs here in a patting my own back exercise. #noshame

Woven Pixie Tee

Chalk & Notch’s Pixie Tee is as great in woven fabric as it is in knits.


Metallic Kaufman linen and Art Gallery cotton for the lining. LOVE.


I added a little something to the back of this Cheyenne. All the details, my favorite tools for sewing button-ups, and my tips for success are in the guest post.


Another Pixie tee hack, this one for cooler weather. So cozy and very simple to add a cowl. Gabriela even has a downloadable reference for the mods.


Pleats make everything better! Right?


This one is probably my favorite, but maybe I say that about every fresh-off-the-machine make. ;)