Very Wearable Muslin: Bryce Cargo Pants

bryce lines.JPG

I must have just started sewing pants at the beginning of this year and binged on a few views of Ginger jeans, Morgans, Jamie jeans, as well as Birkins just before the Bryce cargos released. So I must have been over pants sewing and thought I didn’t need another pants pattern. Hello. I was rather wrong.

Pockets and knee darts aside, I also don’t think I realized the style lines were different than most jeans or pants patterns with a yoke in the back. Bryce cargos don’t have one, but instead achieve waist fitting through darts and a 3 piece waistband. That waistband is curved just right. Simple rectangular waistbands don’t seem to fit curvy bodies nearly so well.

So anyway! I’m here to tell you that I loved sewing these pants and that fitting them was very straightforward for me.

My body measurements (30” waist and 40” hips) put me right in a size 12, so I started right there.

I used a rather nice navy stretch twill from LA Finch Fabrics from my stash. My records say I purchased 2 yards and it was exactly what I needed (note- I omitted flaps on all the pockets and modified the front pockets slightly, but I still think it was the perfect amount).

 #feetforscale

#feetforscale

This is all I had left after re-cutting the waistband including the facing (more on that to follow).

So I basted the pants (minus waistband) before doing any construction and they looked and felt pretty good so I went forward with cutting all the pieces, assembling, and finishing as per the directions along the way. With cargo pockets on the sides just above the knees, the outseams are completed before the inseams. That’s all good, but it is often a seam I make fit adjustments along, so I would definitely muslin or baste these pants without worrying about the pockets first.

It’s very common for me to need to adjust the back waist on pants so they don’t gap. I simply took in a small wedge right along the center back seam that in effect removed about an inch total. The directions give advise on adjusting the waist in 2 fashions- taking in the waist at the side seams and adjusting and adding back darts (or a combination or these for more than 2” of adjustment). So I probably should have taken from the side seams, but it was just so easy to adjust the center back seam.

I love, love, love the finishing on the waistband. These are the first pair of pants I’ve sewn using a bias binding in this manner and trying new techniques is something I really enjoy when sewing different patterns.

 waistband facing with bias binding

waistband facing with bias binding

Now, the size 12 waistband seemed to fit my pants fine even though I had adjusted the waist so I went ahead and sewed it on and finished the pants with the exception of the button and buttonhole. Buttonholes are not something I undertake late at night.

Hot damn, though. They really were too big at the waist. I shouldn’t have been surprised. I hadn’t adjusted the waistband even though I had adjusted the pants at the waist. So I slept on how I was going to tackle a fix. I really liked the material and how the pants had turned out so I was willing to put in the effort to make them more wearable.

Simplest fix really- I pulled the waistband completely off, printed a size 8 waistband, recut and assembled fresh (it was just as much a treat the second time around). Now, I’m here to tell you my Bryce cargos fit much better (shocking, I know) and I love them.

20181003_085548.jpg

I’m 5’ 5” and I made no adjustments to the length.

 Proof that I put a button on ;)

Proof that I put a button on ;)

 worn with a Trevi top

worn with a Trevi top

Looking at these pictures, though, maybe the bum zone could use some adjustment? It’s a tricky area to photograph and ASSess on one’s own. I think I would start by raising the pockets maybe a 1/2”.

20181003_085529.jpg

The front pockets are modified with a welt. It’s a work in progress of a rtw pocket I’m copying.

 worn with a Halifax hoodie

worn with a Halifax hoodie

I really excited to use this pattern to recreate a pair of rtw linen pants in my wardrobe. I also want to look closer at Emily’s post for making jeans using Bryce and Sandbridge.


Update! After a few wears and washes, I’m finding this size, 12, to be a bit too big. I’m still very happy with my size 8 waistband and have sewn another pair of Bryces in stretch linen since this pair (blog post coming soon). I plan to sew future pair, going down 1 or possibly 2 sizes (depending on fabric stretch), but will keep using the size 8 waistband.