Sewing Biscayne

Sewing buddy Jen, @makerheart, and I had recently decided we wanted to do some sewcial sewing, picking a fabric we both had in our stash and inviting folks to share in sewing the same fabric with us; #LetsSewThisTogether was born. We both purchased Art Gallery rayon in Winterberry Pine after fondling it in person at Sew To Speak in Columbus on a sewing meet-up. (There are a lot more details I could share this but I'm thinking it's a topic for another blog post, maybe!) Anyhow, I picked the Biscayne pattern by Hey June and Jen picked another pattern. 


Biscayne released in 2015 and had been in my #2017makenine grid. When the calendar changed to 2018, it was still on my "patterns I own but haven't sewn" list. #theshame


Before I actually tackled Biscayne, I made a Carrie Cardigan using double brushed poly in a teal to coordinate. It was a sewcrastination ploy; I was sweating the sizing on Biscayne.


Those are the 2 big hurdles in getting started sewing; sizing and fabric. Since I had already picked the fabric before the pattern, I was really sweating the sizing. I'm 5'5" with 37" full bust, 30" waist, and 40" full hip, so I was initially tempted to sew a L. I asked for sizing help in the HJ FB group but it was Terri Odd's blog post on her Biscayne that really helped me decide which size I wanted to cut, especially since I'm a rather lazy sewist and seldom make a true muslin. I ended up cutting a S, and grading out to the M at the hem (though I'm usually more of a M to L). There's loads of ease in this design which you can see reflected in the finished measurements chart.


There's an option for a patch pocket or a welt. I thought this might be the first time I sewed a welt.


And then I waffled with cutting it down to a simple patch. But spoiler alert- I skipped the pocket options altogether (like I very often seem to do) because I didn't want a pocket to interfere with the drape of the rayon on my blouse.

Biscayne features a hidden button placket. I've done a few other types of plackets before, but this specific style was new to me. The origami was fun (read: slightly mind boggling), but it really wasn't all that complicated. There does seem to be a full sew along for this blouse, but I didn't notice it until writing this post.


Anyhow, I ended up using a little tape to keep my placket pieces in place for stitching (and removing it right after). I think it came out rather nicely.


I didn't have any other new obstacles. The French seams, neckline, and bias binding are standard stuff.

That's not to say I didn't use my seam ripper. I certainly did. I think a small section of facing got caught when I was attaching the collar... even though the instructions specifically warn against doing just that. Yup.


Nice, clean finishing throughout.


Look at the drape! Nom.


While cutting a S for my bust really made me anxious, you can see there's still plenty of ease through the upper chest. I could probably even do an XS next time (grading to a S or M at the hem).


The placket came out virtually invisible with those wooden buttons hidden inside. 


And here's the full winter look. When I was working professionally, sleeveless blouses were a huge portion of my wardrobe. They are great in all seasons since they layer effortlessly and as such work well under white coats.


Bottom line- I would sew Biscayne again, though I'd probably go down one more size in the bust. A woven top really doesn't need to have much ease when it's sleeveless.

Lastly, I wish I could say the jeans are me made. These are my favorite ready to wear pair, but I've been baby-stepping my way to sewing jeans and recently took the plunge and muslined some Birkins. More to come on that new sewing adventure!