Sewn With Heart: A Fabric Love Story Continues

In the second installment of my #SewnWithHart fabric love story, I’m sharing more of what I made with the luscious tencel gabardine from Harts.

Without any further ado, I introduce my new Flint pants! This was my first time making this pattern and after struggling with the fit on the Ailakki bodice, I was really thrilled to have an easy win.

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These pants have a unique crossover flap through the left slash pocket. There’s not even a zipper!

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Why didn’t anyone tell me about these during #SewFancyPants!?!

(Actually I’m pretty sure I bought the pattern in January when it was feautured as Megan Nielsen’s pattern of the month!)

Flint sews up incredibly quickly and would be fantastic for beginner pant makers.

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I made a straight size 6 (28” waist, 38” hips) in the cropped length. I barely made the pieces fit on what was left of the 2.5 yards of tencel twill I had already cut my Ailakki top from. The waistband needed to be pieced.

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And when it came time to hem them (I should add I’m 5’5”), I decided they would look better longer, so I had to finagle hem bands to finish them. It was some pattern tetris wizardry at its finest. (Thanks, Gwyn, for helping me make it work!)

hem

hem

And of course my Flint pants pair perfectly with my hacked Ailakki wrap top!

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My only regret is that I didn’t interface along the pocket openings. They tend to want to bag open a bit.

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But these pants are comfortable af and make quite a statement at the same time.

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I believe the pattern calls for 2 buttons, but I used 3 because I love these Citron Jeans buttons so much.

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And of course, I put a Kylie and the Machine label in the back. It speaks for itself.

(Harts is carrying these sexy  woven labels  now!!)

(Harts is carrying these sexy woven labels now!!)

I’m suddenly in need of a bodysuit pattern so I can replace this dingy rtw thing I’m wearing here.

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I’m ready for my Sparkly Ladies night now!

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Sewn With Hart: a rambling love story about fabric

I’m not entirely sure I know where this story begins…

Maybe my story starts in July of 2017 because that’s when the Fringe pattern was in testing and I met Dana in the testing group. I was introduced to Harts Fabric as they offered a “tester discount.” You probably know I haven’t met a fabric discount I didn’t love, so I ordered two different Cotton and Steel rayon prints.

Or does this story start in May 2018 at Quilt Market, PDX? Because here, I can actually say I met Dana. Physical, in real life, flesh and blood met. Not internet, social media stalking, fan girl met. We happened upon each other at Jessica Swift’s Art Gallery Fabrics booth. I had sewn Jessica a Fringe dress with her Sirena rayon! Serendipity, my friends!! Serendipity. I remember Dana was wearing an awesome cardigan which I mistakenly guessed was a "Driftwood.” I meant Blackwood, but my star struck brain combined Driftless and Blackwood. It was neither of those, but rather a Jalie pattern. I digress!

So hey, the year is now 2019. And it’s February. It’s Harts Fabric’s month of self love sewing, #SewnWithHart, and I’m the caboose on the blogger train. My project was inspired by my need for an outfit for a ladies night event in early March.

With a “Miami Heat” theme for this year, I knew I wanted to make something sassy. Enter Named’s Ailakki jumpsuit!

I NEVER thought I would make a jumpsuit. EVER. But suddenly it seemed like the perfect project for my event. It called for a new hashtag! #lonisewsajumpsuit

Right. How did I even wind up at Quilt Market in PDX? It’s crazy. But that story also starts with an internet friendship formed over fabric. I have the Cleverest of Colleens to thank. She also goes by Gwyn, The Fabricsourcerer. If there’s ever a very specific fabric you need found, she is your woman. I met Gwyn after falling in love with the fabric line she designed for Raspberry Creek Fabrics in early 2017. I’ll share more details when Gwyn gets around to writing the exposé, but it all started here:

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So I went to PDX to irl meet The Gwyn, wearer of buffalo plaid and drinker of vodka.

OK. Yes, you’re here for the JUMPSUIT. I was completely intrigued by the tencel gabardine in Harts’ selection and it sounded perfect for Ailakki. (Named’s cover sample is made from cupro twill.) When I received it, I was instantly in love. It’s the holy grail of tencel twill. Soft, thick, drapey. In one word: DELICIOUS.

I pulled an odd-shaped scrap of rayon for the lining, one of the two Cotton and Steel prints I had purchased during Fringe testing. (It never became a Fringe, but rather another Chalk and Notch design, Farrah!) It didn’t really occur to me until I was starting to think about writing up this blog post, but the lining fabric had also traveled through Harts’ hands, albeit over 2 years earlier. Kismet!

Now, a detail-oriented sewist doesn’t just cut striped fabric all willy-nilly like. (I mean I used to. before I knew what pattern matching was. I’m sure if you scroll far back enough on my insta grid you’ll find some examples… #neverstoplearning ) So, I fussy cut the Ailakki bodice to match the stripes across the front, back and sides. And this is when I decided this Cotton and Steel beauty couldn’t just be the lining. It needed to also be SEEN!

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Long story short, I ended up with a reversible Ailakki top! (#lonididntsewajumpsuit)

The fitting was challenging. For one thing, it’s rather hard to pin a bodice to one’s own back. I asked my husband for some help at one point, and it didn’t end well. (He snagged the rayon!) I’m glad our marriage survived! I don’t have a proper dress form that approximates my shape and size. I have a simple mannequin I bought secondhand from a woman who used to use it to model LuLaRue. She’s great for general modeling, but she’s not a form one can use for fitting. (Her name is Tina, btw. And I’d like to think Tina is much more well-dressed now.) To make things easier, I ended up removing 2.5” from the center back, skipping the zipper, and sewing the seam shut.

yes. a flying pig.

yes. a flying pig.

I tried to eliminate some of the gaping at the keyhole by removing a wedge from the bodice edge starting at the dart. But the waist darts are quite large and probably in the wrong place as far as my apex goes, but only you, me, and the sewing community at large will notice. Certainly none of the inebriated ladies at my ladies night event will care!

I am also slightly concerned I might experience a Janet Jackson halftime show moment while dancing in this top, so I plan on affixing my lady lumps up in there somehow. The Sparkly Ladies have already assured me that they won’t mind! *snort*

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I added a long tie that finishes at 3” wide to the bottom. The rayon had to be pieced. We’re talking 5 or 6 seams in that puppy and there are essentially no usable bits left!

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I love that with the long ties, there’s a bit of versatility in styling.

One last look at the scrumptious tencel gabardine. That twill weave! Swoon.

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I have about 2 yards of this tencel gabardine left and I’m in the process of transforming it into coordinating bottoms for my “fauxsuit.” At the time that this post was due, I hadn’t finished, but I’m sure I’ll be sharing them soon!

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Thank you, Harts!! It’s always a pleasure being part of your celebrations and sewing your fabrics (even if sometimes it takes me 2 years)! #stashhappens

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Taos Top

Maybe sometimes my blog posts are timely. Maybe sometimes not so much. So while Leslie of Threadbear Garments released her first pattern, the Taos top, back in late January and I’m just getting around to blogging about my experience testing the pattern now.

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Taos is a sleeveless, paneled top with 2 interchangeable necklines and 2 hem options.

I made my first cowl neck version out of some dreamy designer overstock sweater knit I rescued from LA Finch Fabrics’ End of Bolt section. Initially I made size 8 as per the body measurements chart.

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I was somewhat concerned about how I’d style a sleeveless top in the winter, but I quickly discovered it’s a really great layering piece, and I often wear it under my favorite Evergreen jacket.

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I sent the scraps of this sweater knit to Jen and she made a matching Taos for twinning!! Read her post here.

Anthropologie is frequently a source of inspiration for my sewing, so after coming across this sleeveless, vented hem sweater, I needed to make another Taos.

This version is a combination of Joann pucker knit and a burnout.

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I like to wear it under my denim coveralls.

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With just a half an inch of negative ease at the bust, I knew I could try making a Taos with a combination of woven and knit fabrics without sizing down. With exactly a half yard of rib knit from Harts, I was able to squeeze out View A. The center is olive rayon challis (leftovers from this project).

I simply lengthened the armbands and neckband to 100% so that it wouldn’t be stretched over the challis, causing puckering. I wish I had some modeled pictures of this version to share with you. But I didn’t feel like editing my, let’s call them…. apex prominences… out of the shots I took. You’ll just have to settle for Tina’s still lifes. (I very rarely have to edit her nips out.) I would have preferred to have the woven panels at the sides, but the length of rib I had wasn’t long enough to fit the center panel. At any rate, consider this my blessing to try Taos in a combination of fabrics. It makes a great scrap buster in that case!

It just so happens that right after testing for the Taos concluded, I found myself in Kansas City. And KC happens to be where Leslie lives, as well as my BFF, Kate.

I’m wearing a Taos under all those layers, for obvious reasons.

I’m wearing a Taos under all those layers, for obvious reasons.

Leslie and I met up briefly at Fabric Recycles, and yes, she is 16 feet tall. #nofilter

Kate obliged me with taking some pics around KC.

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The Museum at Prairie Fire was incredible, albeit rather cold because JANUARY.

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My final version was made from D&H Fabrics’ black wool jersey. As this fabric was rather stretchy, I was able to size down to a 6 here. Tina is modeling again because I often pair this Taos with my Evergreen too. I also brightened these pics so you could see the lovely seam lines.

This was my first experience sewing wool jersey. I’ve got to say I was surprised that it’s not scratchy in the least and is quite warm. I highly recommend trying some if you haven’t before.

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More chilly KC. Pardon the wrinkles. My duffel bag did that.

More chilly KC. Pardon the wrinkles. My duffel bag did that.

Leslie’s pattern impressed me right off the bat. The PDF was very well organized and professional. She certainly set the bar high and I look forward to seeing what other designs she has up her sleeve.

Willamins: a Willamette hack

IndieSew brought Shirt Month back again this February. I had renamed February GiveYOUary and declared I was only sewing for other people this month, but the #shirtmonth fomo was strong. Plus, Jessica Swift had sent me some of her incredibly gorgeous rayon from her new Art Gallery Fabrics collection, Lugu, and I knew I wanted to make myself a Willamette with my advance yardage. (I’ll be sewing a dress for Jessica in exchange for these fabrics!)

I had been eyeing the Perkins shirt dress pattern, but hadn’t pulled the trigger on buying it when I occurred to me I could approximate the look with a few mods to the Hey June pattern I already owned.

Perkins shirt dress by Ensemble Patterns

Perkins shirt dress by Ensemble Patterns

I didn’t realize the sleeve on Perkins is raglan until just now! But anyway, I wanted to imitate the gathered front shoulder and extra boxy shape.

I sewed view A in size 6. (I’m 5"‘5” with a 35/36” full bust and 38” hips.)

I removed 1.5 inches from the front shoulder, adding that same amount to the yoke in the back. This adjustment was also done to the front facing and sleeve pieces to keep all the seams aligned. When cutting the shirt front, I slashed the pattern piece mid shoulder and spread it about 6 or 8 inches. This extra width was gathered into the yoke.

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oh hey. This picture shows the spread was about 6.5” inches.

oh hey. This picture shows the spread was about 6.5” inches.

I used the Lumina Dusk for the yoke facing.

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The drape on the rayon is just excellent.

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I did a full placket much like Tori did here except I didn’t even bother to sew the plackets down! The buttons and holes hold the plackets in place nicely.

I used the Lumina Dusk to finish the hem with bias. I use the “French” bias binding approach as demonstrated here.

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These stunning silver mirrored buttons are from Arrow Mountain. (Out of stock at the time of publishing this post, but Ho-mei assures me they will restock soon! I’ve got my eye on the gold ones now!)

It’s love!! OBVIOUSLY.

It’s cute with the half tuck.

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or tied!

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Thank you Jessica for sharing your new fabric with me! Each new collection is even more beautiful than the last.

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THE END.

Anthro-Inspired Franken-Pants: A #sewfancypants Win

At some point in November (2018) I came across these pants on the interwebs. I instantly fell in love with the style lines and wanted to recreate them in the wine color.

The ankle button tab detail! Squee!

So I purchased the cardinal stretch chino twill offered by La Mercerie during Jess’ Black Friday Sale.

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After sewing both the Liana Stretch Jeans by Itch to Stitch and the Narcisse Pants by Deer and Doe for Sew Fancy Pants, I knew I wanted to combine aspects of both patterns to achieve the ready to wear pants of my dreams.

[Itch to Stitch and Deer and Doe were both sponsors for the Sew Fancy Pants Instagram event. I purchased the Liana pattern from UpCraft Club with my monthly credit (I have a month-to-month account) and I received the Narcisse pattern for free.]


The back of the pants are 90% Liana. I laid the Liana back pattern piece over the back of the Bryce cargo pattern (which I had also previously sewn) to eliminate the yoke.

(It’s come to my attention since winging this my own way, that there are posts out there (for example) about switching out a pattern with a yoke for one with darts, but I went the mashing route with 2 of my tried and true patterns.)

I used the patch pocket markings from Bryce to situate the welts from Narcisse and used all the back welt pocket pattern pieces and instructions from Narcisse.

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The front of my pants are also about 80% (I’m making these numbers up as I go along) Liana with a touch of Narcisse. I knew from my muslin of Liana that I would cut the front of the pants 10” up from the original hem to create the lower front vented panel. I took 2” off from the original side seam to make the side seam panel that would give birth to the front inseam pockets a la Narcisse.

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And here is where I made a mistake I frequently make when altering patterns. I cut my new side panel 2 1/2” (width plus seam allowance x 1) wide instead of 3” wide (width plus seam allowance x 2). Thankfully the 1/2” seam allowance was enough that I could sew the fronts with 1/4” seam allowances and not end up with a pair of pants a size too small.

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So anyway! The front pockets are basically inseam pockets. They sit on the seam I created between the front of the pants and the 2” wide side panel. This general approach was borrowed from Narcisse.

And the pockets are enormous! After all was said and done, the left pocket was too wide and overlapped with the front fly too much, so I trimmed it down.

Sorry this photo is too purple. White balance is for people who know what they are doing. That’s obviously not me.

Sorry this photo is too purple. White balance is for people who know what they are doing. That’s obviously not me.

This was after I removed about 3” from the top of the Narcisse front pocket pattern piece! The rise on Narcisse is higher than Liana and I just guestimated how big I would want these to be by holding the pattern piece up to my body. If I were to do it over again, I would adapt the Liana pocket stays to be compatible with an inseam construction.

Since the fly isn’t stabilized by the pockets in my pants, I interfaced the fly extensions.

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The lower front panel was the bottom 10 1/2” of the original Liana front. I attached it to the assembled upper front and top stitched the seam. When I closed the side seams, I simply stopped at the level of the bottom panel.

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I removed an inch from length at the hem so they would finish at the ankle (I am 5’ 5” tall). I also slimmed the width of both the front and back at the vent, tapering from 1” wide at the hem to nothing at the top of the vent. (I wear a size 7 shoe and this was perfect for me, but you ought to do some foot and ankle measurements if you want to be able to keep the buttons closed while taking the pants on and off. It wouldn’t be the worst thing in the world to have to open and closed the buttons, but I don’t have time for that myself!

Now comes the creative part for creating the button placket/vent feature. I polled my IG followers and mulled it over quite a bit. Folks either said they would approach it as a button fly a la Landers or they would bind the seam a la Brunswick. I don’t own the Lander pants pattern and was familiar with Brunswick having recently tested that pattern, so I went with that method.

I sewed the hem before adding the binding. My pattern piece for the binding was 4” wide by 18” (2” finished width plus seam allowance x 2 by (vent height x 2) plus (seam allowance x 2)). I hope I’m making sense! I wish I had some simple illustration skillz. I just don’t!

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Then they just needed a shit ton of buttons. Lucky for me, I’m a glutton and had ordered a bucket load from my favorite jeans button peddler, Citron Jeans, about 10 days prior.

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These are 14mm buttons, so I used 2 for the waistband.

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Five on each ankle vent.

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And 1 for each of the welts.

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So 14 buttons and holes! Weee!

The end of my story is simply that I love these pants. I think they turned out pretty damn amazing.

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And my pocket bags match my Rifle Paper Co. rayon Trevi top (which I made last summer)! Kudos to that Clever gal, Colleen, for telling me to pair these 2 garments together.

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And they look great with my new Keds!

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I’m always happy to talk shop if you have any questions or comments. Thanks for reading!

Liana Stretch Jeans, 2 ways

As mentioned in my Fancy Pants intro post, having read Allie Olson’s review of the Liana stretch jeans I knew I had to try them. So I used my November UpCraft credit to purchase the pattern and started setting aside fabrics and inspiration images.

When one of my favorite sewing buddies, Jen, visited in December, she gave me this incredible green RL brushed twill.

GAVE.

I asked her 3 times if she was sure, because it is so good.

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So I cut into that scrumptious stuff almost immediately. And I’m here to tell you I really like the Liana pattern.

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The mid-rise is perfect for me. I love that the pocket stay feature means the pocket bags don’t constantly need to be put back in their place. The Liana pattern does come with 3 leg shapes, but I’m a major skinny leg fan (so I’m not sure when I’ll be trying the straight or boot cuts, but I love that they are included).

thank god for sew alongs

thank god for sew alongs

One very interesting part of the construction was the waistband. The instructions call for twill tape to be basted into the seam allowance of the band’s upper edge. I was a bit baffled and needed to consult the sewalong for more images.

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Now, I didn’t see interfacing anywhere in the instructions, but I was concerned about the stability of the button and buttonhole so I fused a couple small pieces inside the band before closing it.

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I did adjust the back of the pants at the center back seam to eliminate the gape I always get. I’m a fan of basted-fitting every pant since stretch and behavior of every material varies quite a bit.

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My favorite hardware comes from Citron Jeans on Etsy. I noticed the washable paper patches in Kenji’s selection and decided to give them a try too. They come in a pack of 5, but I found cutting them in half still maintained a good size patch, so I’ll be able to make 10 patches from one bundle.

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Ultimately, I’m really happy with how this muslin pair turned out.

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I had my doubts about the waistband method. I can say, though, after multiple wears and washes it’s great. Maybe you already knew Kennis was a genius? I’m (regrettably) slow to catch on.

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I also wanted to talk about my Anthropolgie-inspired pair.

I decided to rise to the Fancy Pants challenge and cut into some Cone Mills denim for the first time.

velvet ribbon source-  SuchGoodSupply on Etsy ;  denim  sourced from LA Finch Fabrics

velvet ribbon source- SuchGoodSupply on Etsy; denim sourced from LA Finch Fabrics

I added the narrow strip of velvet ribbon to the pants front pieces 1” from the the outseam raw edge before assembling the front pockets.

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Then I joined the fronts and backs (with yoke) at the outseam. This is a slight departure from the pattern’s construction order. I wouldn’t recommend this construction order if you haven’t first sewn and made any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern since the outseam is a common seam to adjust for hip and waist fit.

With the side seam finished, I added the second ribbon just behind the side seam.

My edge stitch foot was my ally here.

My edge stitch foot was my ally here.

Finish assembling the pants and voila! FANCY.

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I honestly wasn’t sure about the velvet ribbon when I was in the thick of making these jeans. But I reasoned it would be easier to remove the ribbon later than to add it after the fact.

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And the fact is I love them. Lots.

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Certainly, you all were right that Cone Mills denim jeans are the fucking best. THE END.

Cropped Evergreen Jacket

I had been wearing my first Evergreen jacket a bit this fall and loving it, but also wishing I had another one… with possibly a lot less stripes, so when this sage sweatshirt fleece from Harts came into my life, I knew it was going to be great at filling that void.

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Now, I’m not sure I would call the color of this sweatshirt fleece “sage” myself. It’s more on the army green spectrum to me. But it’s a lovely color and it’s got a soft knit face and fluffy brushed goodness inside. It’s neither too drapey nor too stiff. Basically it’s pretty damn good stuff.

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Since I had made an Evergreen jacket before, I did have some changes I wanted to make to this version. Mostly, I knew I wanted a more fitted little jacket. (More on that later.) And I took my time adding some details; some seams have an extra row of top stitching and I decided to quilt the yokes for some tonal texture. And, if you know me, you know I love texture.

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I typically use a stitch length of 2.8 for my top stitching and I used a stitching length of 3.0 for the quilted lines. I can’t remember the last time I used a walking foot on knits. I find those clunky things too… well…. clunky.

I pulled these adorable cuties from my stash to use for the pocket bags on the zippered pockets.

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The zippers were sourced from Wawak. Evergreen calls for a separating jacket zipper and 2 regular zippers for the pockets. I went with the antique brass finish and army green zipper tape. I’d say they are a good match and look cohesive.

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Zippers can be intimidating, but since I learned how to shorten metal zippers last year by simply pulling extra teeth from the top, I’m not scared anymore. Bring on the fancy zippered projects!

The major departure I took from the pattern as written was to opt for a cropped look. I just skipped all the hem band pieces and installed the bottom of the main zipper 3/8” from the bottom of the front pieces. The seam allowance at the bottom left me room to finish the bottom of the jacket with a hem facing I planned to draft.

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Now, once I got the main jacket assembled I shared my progress on IG. I wasn’t sure how I wanted to finish the sleeves as far as the style or length.

The popular opinion was to add elongated sleeve cuffs. But I was itching to crop the sleeves. When Adrianna, the pattern designer, weighed in, the fate of the sleeves was sealed. I was going cropped.

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So I determined where I wanted the finished sleeves to fall (mid forearm; is that 3/4 length?) and ended up shortening the sleeve from the hem by 2”.

Then I set to making simple button cuffs. My drafted cuff pattern follows- 2” wide by measured sleeve circumference + (seam allowance x 2). (Roughly 2” x 10.5”.) Cut 4 of fabric. Cut 4 of interfacing.

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I lazily chose 2” for the cuff height because I love to use this 2” wide tricot on a roll for interfacing whenever I can.

I opened the seam between the front and back sleeve parts about 2 inches and bound the little placket area with a coordinating woven (coincidentally it was scraps from other Hey June this project). Popped on my simple cuffs and added the buttons and holes.

Gratuitous pic of my button cuff-related gear, so I can say, “these are few of my favorite tooools…”

yes. it’s a kid-sized hammer from Lowe’s

yes. it’s a kid-sized hammer from Lowe’s

In lieu of a facing I opted to simply serge and hem the bottom of the jacket.

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So here’s something fun that happened. I realized just after finishing both cuffs that I had only shortened 1 sleeve. Yup. One sleeve was 2” longer than the other. The left one, if you must know.

Honestly, it wasn’t terribly noticeable unless you measured the sleeves. I tend to push them up a tad anyhow. And again with the honesty, I seriously considered leaving the jacket as is until it bothered me.

At some point the next day, after a stewing in my mistake overnight, I realized I wouldn’t have to completely redo the whole cuff. I could simply undo the stitching at the sleeve edge, shorten the sleeve, and reattach the cuff with top stitching. The buttonhole and button would be spared. Well yes, you’re right. I’d have to redo the little placket again too.

And so I did all that and used my zipper foot to get around the cherished button I had grown so fond of.

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And that’s the story.

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I love to wear this jacket over sleeveless tops and I know it’s going to be perfect for spring layering.

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Cowl neck top pattern, testing sample- Taos Top by  Thread Bear

Cowl neck top pattern, testing sample- Taos Top by Thread Bear

My quilting worked out really nicely on one side. The other side is lovely too, just not its own photo on the blog lovely.

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I love seeing them side by side. So similar and yet so different!

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Both jackets are the same size. I find that because the striped fabric (ponte) has more stretch, it often feels much more relaxed, like a stylish sweatshirt more than a trendy jacket.

Sew Fancy Pants Spotlight: La Mercerie

The next fabric shop in the spotlight is La Mercerie. You’re likely here because you follow the lovely and talented Jess on Instagram and you’re taking part in the #sewfancypants event with us this month. If you need to get up to speed, read Nicole’s post here. There’s still plenty of prizes to be given away and ample time to sew your own FANCY PANTS!

Let’s get to the goods!

Jess sent over samples of her very popular micro wale stretch corduroy which she was just able to restock this week.

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I’ll be able to show you olive, cinnamon, ochre, and bordeaux.

The stretch cord color options also include navy, black, and light slate and a slightly heavier 21 wale corduroy in charcoal.

Jess also sent samples of the chino twill so we’ll swoon over those. I’m IN LOVE with the “Nautical Red” color. It’s a lovely faded red/dusty mauve hue.

The non-stretch chino twill also comes in wine, creme, charcoal, black, lilac and slate.

I pulled the stretch stretch chino twill I purchased in November from my stash to share. I have 2 yards of the cardinal colorway that I have FANCY PANTS plans for (more here).

Black, charcoal, army green, navy, and hunter green are also available.

And last but not least, there’s non-stretch, 11 oz Cone Mills in the shop!

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I hope you’ll join us for the live swatch review and sewing chat session on IG, LIVE! There will be a coupon code revealed during the video good for a percentage off all La Mercerie purchases made during live broadcast!

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Narcisse Pants

I was gifted a copy of the the Deer and Doe Narcisse Pants pattern from the designers as part of Sew Fancy Pants month. As I mentioned also in my inspirations post, I had never really noticed all the great style lines and features of Narcisse. They are high-waisted (aka totally on trend) with in-seam pockets in the front, accent side panels, and welt pockets in the back, designed to be sewn with woven fabrics (non-stretch).

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I was instantly excited to dive in and bought some lightweight striped denim from Raspberry Creek Fabrics specifically for these pants and pulled some hemp ticking (sourced from La Mercerie) from my stash for the side panels.

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The construction order and methods were a bit different from many of the pants I’ve assembled before so I took my time and followed the assembly instructions closely. I know some sewers want to stick with what works for them (I’m looking at you, G) and seldom switch up their sewing repertoire, but I enjoy the process as much as the product. So I welcome new sewing adventures! Truly.

One of my challenges in making these pants was that the overhead lights went out in my sewing space. We still haven’t figured out why and we’re waiting on an electrician to come to the rescue. My sewing machine and several other outlets had power so I’d been working under lamps. All to say I had a little trouble with one of my welt pockets and I’m gonna go ahead and put the blame on the poor lighting conditions.

My issue was that I didn’t quite have much of a “triangle” at one end to secure and ended up with a bit of a hole. Some of my attempts to fix it made the situation worse. I finally decided to do some darning that mimicked the stripes in the denim and call it good.

before (with interfacing)

before (with interfacing)

after

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I also had some fitting woes and nearly decided to give up on making these pants work. I think balancing the wide legs and stripes with my short-ish (5”5”) frame was where I was hung up. I tried slimming the legs a bit and then worked on the waist fit (perpetually an issue for me).

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Now, I haven’t sewn many non-stretch pants and I think I ended up over-fitting these a bit and maybe there’s a crotch or thigh fit issue I still need to explore (some photos show the fabric bulging in the front around the pelvis, and I’m constantly tugging the legs down). But they are wearable and I think they came out really cute!

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You might notice the new cardigan I whipped up to complete the outfit.

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The pattern is the Jenna cardi by Muse. I made the cropped length with short sleeves and a cuff which ends up being elbow length for me.

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I wish I had a layering tank in the right shade of navy blue for this outfit. I subbed in a long sleeve rtw bodysuit.

I used the same buttons on my cardi as my Narcisse pants.

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These pants even got the special treatment with a blind hem. #fancy

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I hope you’re joining us in sewing fancy pants this month. I’m having sew much fun, naturally! If you’re looking for the master list of sales, it’s here.

I’m open to recommendations for bodysuit or slim top patterns I can sew to wear with these. Let me know what you love. Adrienne? Nikko?