Madrid Dress Tour

It’s (lucky) day 7 of the Coffee + Thread Madrid Dress Tour! Have you been following as one spectacular version after another is shared?

The inspiration for my take on the Madrid pattern comes from a ready to wear blouse.

rtw inspiration

rtw inspiration

my version

my version

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Madrid, as designed, is a faux wrap with side seam zipper. Changing it to a functional wrap top just took a few simple modifications. The front needs 2 skirt portions, cut not on fold. I added a few inches (~3) to the width, though, so the skirts would be gently gathered when attached to the bodice. One of the glorious things about the scalloped edge on the eyelet, is that it’s finished! No need for the neckline facing here. Since I omitted the front facings, I finished the back neckline with a simple bias binding.

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With a gathered detail on the sleeve hem, I widened/straighten the sleeve shape while shortening the sleeves 4” to 3/4 length. A simple casing holds 1/2” elastic to complete the look.

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Ribbon ties (at the right front edge and left side seam) secure the wrap.

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I also added a button inside the right side seam to keep the left side closed under the right. A serger thread chain left after joining the skirt at the waist became the loop.

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I love this feminine top and am calling this a #sewrtwstyle win!

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I’m sorry to report this premium eyelet from LA Finch Fabrics is sold out.

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Thank you, Claudia, for organizing and inviting me to participate!


I sewed a size 6. (I measure 34” high bust, 35” full bust, 28” waist, 37” hips. 5’5”.)


Receive 25% off any and all the Coffee + Thread patterns using coupon code ‘madridtour’ throughout the tour.

Ogden Cami: eating my words

The thing is I quite honestly used to love to hate on the Ogden Cami.

In general because I thought I could never wear it with those itty bitty stappy straps. I’m a human with mammary glands. And they need supporting. (I’m a sewing A cup, but a D cup in bras.)

And I swore I WOULD NEVER buy it.

Fast forward a bit and I’ve made 3 in the last 9 days.

Here’s how that came about:

Having orchestrated a sewing swap with Jen in April, I decided it would be fun to join a swap and bask in the low key glory of not running it.

So I bought the Ogden pattern! (Mark the date. June 9, 2019.) I could have joined the swap and just sewn the Ida clutch. It’s a great free pattern and I’ve made it before, but I was all in.

I had to try the pattern before sewing it for someone else. It’s the responsible thing to do.

So I made a rayon challis muslin using the same fabric as a sample pair of Luna pants a friend had commissioned me to sew for her.

Who even am I?

Who even am I?

The first thing that struck me was that the straps really aren’t as skinny and long as one might be picturing.

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The straps finish at 1/2” wide, covering narrow bra straps well and are about 8” long.

The facings are pretty substantial, an aspect of the pattern I had previously loved to critique. Of course this makes for quick construction, but in airy fabrics, one doesn’t really notice any added bulk from the facings.

I was also surprised by how low the back dips.

It’s not compatible with this pull-on shelf-bra thing from Target.

It’s not compatible with this pull-on shelf-bra thing from Target.

just fine with a “regular” bra

just fine with a “regular” bra

Actually, I LOVE HOW MUCH it shows of my back. (I’ve been on the hunt for good patterns to show off that ink back there.) I don’t think I appreciated the cut of the back from the pictures I had seen on Insta. (But also, I wasn’t paying Odgen much attention, because we weren’t friends.)

This June has been particularly mild in Ohio, but I (now) knew Ogden would be a fantastic top for summer. I needed MOAR.

And I didn’t have to look far to find a ready to wear (rtw) cami for inspiration for more Ogdens.

Images from  Anthropologie

Images from Anthropologie

I love a tiered version because it utilizes the facing as an actual style point. I’m sure this mod has be done many times. But I was just getting on board. #lateadopter

with a “regular” back-closure bra

with a “regular” back-closure bra

For my first tiered cami, I used only the front and back pattern pieces. I cut 1 set full length and another set shortened 2.5”. (I shortened at the lengthen/shorten line so the tiers would have some movement between them. If you shorten from the hem, the layers will be same widths and sit very closely to each other. ) The full length set becomes the “facing.” Just be sure to sew the right side of the shortened/outer set to the wrong side of the “facing”/longer set. I did this exactly backwards (with the shortened layer ending up inside the full length) on my first go, because braining is hardest sometimes for the simplest of tasks.

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Knowing I loved this effect, I set out to copy a few of the other aspects of the rtw cami.

I raised the back neckline 2.5” and straightened it. (It’s now quite obvious which is the front vs. back and one won’t find one’s self pinning the facing to the wrong side.)

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In the front, I added a half of inch to the height (because it folds over to create a casing for the strap) and widened this area so it would gather like my inspiration.

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Surprise! I had lingerie sliders in my stash. (When am I sewing lingerie?? Lord only knows. Bewbs are rather mysterious.)

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I knew I would need the straps to be a bit longer in order to run through the casing and meet itself at the slider, so I just doubled their length when cutting. I then sewed the straps with a larger seam allowance so they would finish at 3/8” to work with the slider.

The straps are sewn in the back of the top as usual. In the front, simply sew up, across, and back down the strap attachment area (without the straps inside). Trim, clip and turn the area as usual.

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After turning right side out, fold the top to the wrong side/inside and stitch it in place, creating the strap casing. Below- the left is before and the right is after stitching the casing.

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Then it was just a matter of trying it on and figuring out how long the straps need to be when running through the casing. I actually abandoned the slider aspect at this point. A) I think they look cheesy and B) I wouldn’t be adjusting my straps, so I simply stitched them in place.

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I think I did a pretty good job copying the Anthro cami, but here’s what I also did: I created a top that didn’t work well with a bra (narrower straps with an open detail) and in essence changed all that really is wonderful about Odgen.

it’s either bandaids or a bra. I think I prefer a bra.

it’s either bandaids or a bra. I think I prefer a bra.

So to the last half dozen or some so folks out there who haven’t tried Ogden, I say you are missing out a pretty good thing. It’s much more bra friendly than you think! (And widening the straps to match your bra strap width would be very doable.) Go take advantage of the many variations and hacks that have already been shared. You won’t have to invent them!

left- back raised 2.5”/right as designed

left- back raised 2.5”/right as designed


I sewed a straight size 6 for all my versions. (I measure 34” high bust, 35” full bust, 28” waist, 37” hips. 5’5”.)


More info on the swap can be found here.

Harts Street Team! Adrienne!

Harts Fabric somewhat recently introduced their Street Team and I’m excited to be in this group of fun and talented sewists! #imnotworthy

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I did want to take a moment before I sharing my first project to explain what it means to be on the team. It means that Harts sends me fabric to work with and often patterns and possibly some notions. It doesn’t mean I get paid or reimbursed monetarily otherwise. I don’t have any affiliate links (with Harts or any other companies). There’s a quick little disclosure on my blog that many folks have probably never seen.

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It appears in a column on the right, below links to the most recent blog posts. As most folks are browsing via their smart phones, they never see this column due to the simplified format of the mobile-friendly site.

But that’s it. It’s not complicated. I’m not profiting. So I won’t be marking my Harts Street Team contributions as ads or sponsored. I will mark that content with our official tag, #hartsstreetteam and I will always be honest about everything I share.

So thank you, Harts, for your generosity. I’m thrilled to partner with you in sharing a love of fabric and sewing. Let’s get to Adrienne!


This was my first time working with a pattern from Friday Pattern Company. Obviously, I love that the pattern is a PDF file and has LAYERS. (Thank you, sweet baby Jesus for that.) There’s sweet little encouraging notes in the margins between the pattern pieces and those certainly put a smile on my face too. It felt almost wrong to cut them off!

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With a full bust around 35/36” depending on the bra, waist 29-ish” depending on the meal, and hips about 37”, I chose do do a straight size medium. Many of the examples of this blouse on Instagram appear very fitted throughout the entire torso, so that’s something I considered when choosing the size. (The pattern doesn’t supply a finished hip measurement.)

The fabric I received from Harts is a blush modal jersey. The modal part was the selling point. And it’s pink! I suddenly wear pink now and can’t seem to get enough.

Those thoughtful folks also sent 1/2” elastic, matching thread and stretch needles!

Those thoughtful folks also sent 1/2” elastic, matching thread and stretch needles!

I wish you could feel like stuff. It’s super soft and has a cool hand. I don’t know what it is about this knit, but it also has a woven feel to it. So unique! It’s a wee bit thick, but not so much as a ponte.

Adrienne is super simple really. The front and back pieces are the same, and the sleeves are cut on the fold. This makes for really quick sewing. The front and back necklines gets a simple band to finish, while there’s a casing for elastic at the top of the sleeves.

Hello, gorgeous!

Hello, gorgeous!

I used both my serger and sewing machine to construct this blouse.

I love a good thread blend!

I love a good thread blend!

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One modification I made was to cut the sleeve hem elastic 2” shorter than recommended. At the full elastic length, I found the sleeve wanted to get hung up on my elbow.

My blouse hem is only 1/4” (serged and turned once) because I wanted to keep as much length as possible. (I’m 5’5” tall, average, really!) It was just right like this, so I would consider adding some length to the bodice next time to have at full 1/2” hem.

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Oh, the drama of that sleeve! It’s everything I’d been coveting on everyone’s Adriennes for months!

Just point me in the direction of the nearest Renaissance fair, please!

Just point me in the direction of the nearest Renaissance fair, please!

I slimmed the side seam a tad below the waist. This lightly structured fabric wanted to hang away from my body a bit too much. I would consider going down a size all around if using very drapey or lax fabric such as rayon spandex. It also would be great to combine this pattern with a bodysuit to hold it tucked into high-waisted jeans.

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The blush color is a great match with my suede booties and I see these 2 items getting pairs together frequently this fall.

THANKS, HARTS!!

THANKS, HARTS!!

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Harts had gifted me materials prior to the official Street Team designation. Those projects were previously blogged- Ailakki top, Flint pants, Evergreen jacket, and “Kendra” jumpsuit.

Heyyy, Kendra!

So this make is a looooong time coming. I had planned to make a version of an Anthroplogie jumpsuit since March (?) when the #sewbibs challenge started. I remember being quite thankful the challenge was running through mid-April. I had plenty of time!! LOADS OF TIME.

Yeah. So it’s June now. Hey June June. Don’t ask me what happened to the last 3 months. I quite literally don’t know. But here’s what I do know. I made that jumpsuit. My way. And it is practically nothing like the original jumpsuit I set out to make.

So. The fabric. The amazing Harts crew sent me some of the Robert Kaufman Santa Cruz twill in moss. Obviously it’s not pink. But I picked it out before I decided pink was a color I’d wear. (I’ve since made a pink jacket and 2 pink shirts…It’s been 3 months. People change.) THANKS, HARTS! Sorry, I took an eon on this project.

And. The patterns. Fiona Sundress and Kendrick Overalls. Harts also supplied the Fiona pattern. And I tried my best to work with the tissue pattern. But I’m a PDF pattern girl and I just CANNOT handle tissue patterns. The are scary just like spiders. So I sold the paper pattern and bought the PDF. And my life got 4000 percent* better.

Princess seams and buttons up the front. I was on the right track here. I muslined view A of Fiona in white stretch twill.

Then I started on the bottom portion using the Kendricks pants. Now if one went back and looked at the style lines on the Anthro inspo, they have little pleats in the front. I wasn’t so much interested in that, nor slash pockets. They always gape. No thanks.

I cut the Kendrick pants straight up without the hip pockets as I planned to add the beautiful patch pockets from Fiona here. Given I measure 29” at the waist and 37” for hips and I had non-stretch fabric, I choose to start with size 8. After a quick baste fit of the 8, while neglecting to read where it says in the directions that the outseam has a full 1” seam allowance, I found them to be miles too big. I decided to reprint and start with size 4. I’d have lots of room in the outseam to adjust if necessary. Ultimately, the 4 was a much better place to start.

At some point I remembered the back of the jumpsuit as having cross over straps and so for some reason I switched to using the view B bodice from Fiona. I think at this point the jumpsuit had sold out so there weren’t many pictures to consult and I had a temporary moment of insanity. I mean why would I have muslined the other view if I ultimately intended to use a different one? I just can’t explain it.

why, Loni? why?

why, Loni? why?

To attach the Fiona top to the Kendricks bottoms, I simply sandwiched the top seam of the waistband/waistband facing, lining up the side seams. Top stitching the waistband facing finished it all off

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So my jumpsuit doesn’t look THAT MUCH like the original one I set out to copy. It’s not pink. The straps and back cut are differently and the pants are not at all the same style. No flare.

But it’s done!

I made this!

I made this!

Kinda cute?

I realized that wedgie was a pain in the ass and something ought to be done about it.

#lowbuttsewwhat

#lowbuttsewwhat

A quick low seat adjustment helped!

before and after a low seat adjustment

before and after a low seat adjustment

It looks like I moved the pockets down too, but I hadn’t! It’s just the magic of that little scoop of the back crotch curve.

The legs were slimmed quite a bit from the original silhouette of Kendrick. I pulled a full inch off the outseam of both the front and back leg starting at the hem and tapering back to the original seam allowance at the bottom of the patch pocket.

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I kinda wish I had brained how to do a zipper in the back or one of the side seams. It’s a lot of buttons to undo if you’re needing to use the loo. (I’ve been watching Fleabag, you?)

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I had added 5 inches to the hem length from the outset since wanted them to be full length, but I think I prefer them rolled. They probably ended up at the same length as originally designed. #alwaystrustadrianna

The finishing for both patterns is fab.

The bias trim on the edge of the waistband facing is not done “right” per se, but it’s done.

The bias trim on the edge of the waistband facing is not done “right” per se, but it’s done.

I used Citron Jeans buttons because they are the. best. period.

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So I’m glad I saw this vision through. Even if it’s a few months late for #sewbibs, it’s 50% Hey June!

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*hyperbole never

Madewell-inspired Willamette hack

I’ve been perusing the Madewell site again. And I came across this beautiful crisp white blouse.

I instantly knew I wanted to use the Hey June Handmade Willamette pattern to recreate the look.

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But it wasn’t until Audrey @skirtfixation started a sew along in her Instagram stories for Hey June June that found the motivation to do it.

The ready to wear blouse is very close to Willamette’s view A with a few departures; there’s a pleat in the front and the lower back has 2 separate panels with button plackets.

To achieve this look, I made the following pattern adjustments:

  • Cut 1 front on the fold. Marked a line down the center of the cut fabric, ending at the level of the stitch line pattern marking. This became a cut line after sewing the neckline.

  • Cut 1 front facing (and 1 of interfacing) on the fold, 2 inches below the stitching line marked on the main front piece. Again, marked a line down the center.

  • Cut 2 mirrored backs, adding width along the original fold line. I measured 2.5 inches from the original pleat marking (center back notch). Interfaced (2 inches wide) at the center back cut line. This became the button plackets.

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Construction changes-

  • Attached the main front to one back yoke at the shoulders.

  • Similarly, joined the shoulders on the front facing (outside and bottom edge finished) and the other back yoke (now the yoke facing).

  • With the rights sides together and assembled collar sandwiched in between, stitched front/back yoke and facing/yoke facing together along the neckline and down around the marked center line.

  • Cut down the marked center line and into the corners.

I apologize my fabric  is the same on both sides. I didn’t set out to make a tutorial when I made this top.

I apologize my fabric is the same on both sides. I didn’t set out to make a tutorial when I made this top.

  • Flipped the facing/yoke facing completely to the inside.

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  • Sewed the inside and outside shoulder seams together in an alternative method. Instead of stitching in the ditch from the top side, I sewed all the seam allowances together from the inside. (This is quiet hard to describe. I simply pinched all the shoulder seams on one side together, and turned them out so they could be sewn.)

  • Folded 1 inch to the wrong side on both center back pieces twice. Voila! Button plackets!

  • With back lower pieces overlapping at the button plackets, placed them RST on the yoke. and burrito rolled the shirt to bring the right side of the yoke facing to meet it. Stitched together and turned it out.

mmmmm. Burrito.

mmmmm. Burrito.

Finished shirt assembly- hemmed, closed side seams and added sleeve cuffs.

The front pleat was all but completed at this point. I simply overlapped the fronts, creating the pleat and stitched through all the layers together to keep it in place.

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Voila! The crisp white summer blouse of my dreams.

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Fabric is white stretch poplin from Harts.

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I love it.

worn with Liana stretch jeans made from Cone Mills denim.

worn with Liana stretch jeans made from Cone Mills denim.

And I look forward to wearing it this summer (especially when my kids aren’t around).

As it turns out, after sharing my blouse on IG, Adrianna said it was actually the Madewell blouse that inspired the Willamette pattern! So we’ve come full circle here!


Heidi was inspired by a similar Madewell top too. Check out her rainbow stripe button-back Willamette (blogged here).

Berry Baskets with Alexandria Fabrics

We were deep in last year’s winter when Lizzie Clark invited me to sew for a blog tour featuring her new Sweet Bee Fabrics collection, Alexandria. The collection instantly transported me to spring and begged to become items celebrating garden treasures.

And so I chose to use Noodlehead’s Berry Baskets. It’s a free pattern and tutorial, just ripe for the picking! #ithinkimpunny

small basket, using Songbird and Bloom Bouquet prints

small basket, using Songbird and Bloom Bouquet prints

Those sweet little bird silhouettes!

I made both basket sizes, small and large.

large size (Bloom Bouquet inside)

large size (Bloom Bouquet inside)

Because I’m kinda lazy when it comes to interfacing, I skipped the heavy interfacing in the sides of the baskets and they were kind of…a literal flop.

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To stabilize the sides and add some visual interest, I decided to weave some double fold 1/2” strips around the baskets and ultimately I created a forktonne more work for myself. As one does!

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I used my buttonhole cutter to create the slits to weave the fabric strips. If only I had studied basket weaving in school instead of medicine! There was a lot of “winging it” going on.

But I think they came out rather cute!

(Flower Garden and Garden Path)

(Flower Garden and Garden Path)

These sweet little baskets are great for holding crafty wares too.

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And they’re reversible!

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My stop today concludes the tour!

Here’s the full schedule so you may be inspired by the other participants’ sweet makes too.

April 25 - Emily - https://www.sewdarnclose.com

April 30 - Meg - https://www.megmadesewing.com/blog/alexandria-blog-tour-ishi-dress

May 2 - Sharon - https://colorgirlquilts.com/blog

May 7 - Lissa - https://lovinglylissa.com

May 9 - Sherry - https://poweredbyquilting.com

May 14 - Jen - https://dizzyquilter.com

May 16 - Diane - https://www.dianesullivandesigns.com/blog-1

May 21 - Steph - https://www.stephjacobsondesigns.com

May 23 - Nicole - https://www.modernhandcraft.com/blog

May 28 - Allison - https://allison-sews.blogspot.com


It’s entirely possible I set aside my favorites from Alexandria with plans to make myself something extra special…and naturally ran out of time. So there will be more Alexandria in my future!

The Blossoms print is my favorite.

The Blossoms print is my favorite.

Thanks for sharing your collection with me, Lizzie!

Hey June, heyyyyy

It’s the kick-off party for Hey June June this week! All the event details are posted here.

The amazing James got the party started for us yesterday!! Thanks, James!

I should hope by now you’re following all the hosts, as we’ve each got an extra package to give away this week.

Since I’m hosting the first week of Hey June June (June 1st through 9th) and I don’t want you to miss any of my featured fans’ posts, I’m taking this opportunity to introduce them all here today. The date of their fan feature is listed below their images.

I’m so very excited to see what they share. A new make was not a requirement. While many die hard Hey June fans already have a closet full of Cheynnes, Unions, Lanes, and Halifaxes (is that how plurals work?), I bet we’ll be seeing a lot of fresh new sews.

I’ll have a Lane Raglan pattern and fabric bundle from Style Maker up for grabs this week on my Instagram. Look for the post with this image-

Week 2 starts June 10 and will be hosted by Audrey, @skirtfixation.

Twill Tape Magic Waistband Fix (patent pending)

I’m still on a bit of high from solving all my waistband problems. It’s a super simple fix really and because it doesn’t even involve a seam ripper, I think it’s fair to call it magic, apply for a patent, and start raking in the royalties. (That’s how that works, right?)

I’m talking about stretch jeans. They fit perfectly fresh out of the wash. But then they grow. They need to be constantly tugged back up. And they have to be washed again because they are a sad droopy mess by the end of the first day’s wear

The idea for my fix came from the construction of Liana Stretch Jeans. I think I sewed 3 pairs for #sewfancypants in January! (Blog posts- here and here.)

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There’s no interfacing whatsoever in the waistband on Lianas. Instead, narrow twill tape is basted into the upper seam allowance. I was skeptical at first, but I like to try new construction methods and give them a fair shot.

So 3 pairs, several wears down the road I can tell you this stabilizing method holds up incredibly well. And it’s the impetus for my fix for already constructed (ie rtw) jeans.

There’s no need to open the waistband for my fix, though! Simply sew some twill tape to the waistband facing.

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The first pair I experimented with this approach on was a pair of rtw jeans I had altered the year before, adding waist darts in the back and removing some width from the waistband. This certainly helped this pair a lot, but I found them to be too big again this year, mostly because they stretch out through the day. Since I never wear belts I didn’t even bother to take the belt loops off before sewing the twill tape in.

The bobbin thread matched my denim so well I don’t even think you can see the line of stitching that runs over the belt loops.

The bobbin thread matched my denim so well I don’t even think you can see the line of stitching that runs over the belt loops.

I went after my high-waist Ginger jeans next.

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This was the first and last time I used a cute quilting cotton for the waistband facing. Even with interfacing, it’s just not as stable as denim. I had already moved the button on this pair in an inch several months back.

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I never added belt loops to these black Gingers, so there were none to worry in this case.

I simply try to ease as much of the jeans waistband under the twill as I go. Think if it as the opposite of stretching elastic while sewing it. (Alternatively, you could use a length of twill tape that sits comfortably at the level where you want your jeans to live. Mark the quarters on your tape and jeans and ease them together.)

Can you see the line of wear across the middle of the waistband on these? The band used to always flop over. Not anymore!

Can you see the line of wear across the middle of the waistband on these? The band used to always flop over. Not anymore!

One last example coming at you. I even freed the belt loops from their top stitching on this pair. initially, I used some ricrac. But I had worn these for several hours first and they were too relaxed already. I had to rip out the ricrac, wash and dry them and go at it again. I definitely recommend stabilizing the waistband on a fresh washed pair when they fit the best and haven’t stretched with wear.

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I went back to the twill tape. And because this pair was particularly prone to growing and I found I hadn’t quiet eased them in enough, I added an extra length in the back from side seam to side seam.

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I also moved the button in 3/4”. I’m not sure if you can appreciate from the before and after pictures, but I was able to slip these straight off without undoing the button and zipper at all before and now they stay put on my hips. (Yeah. They got cut-off too. It’s hot. #aintnobodygottimetosewnewshorts)

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I’m really glad I tried the Liana stretch jeans pattern and that this stabilizing trick translated well to other applications. I’ll be using twill tape in the upper seam allowance of all my waistbands going forward and adding it at will for those pairs (both self sewn and rtw) that tend to grow too much.

And may all your jeans stay put now too!

Lucerne, Lucerne, Lucerne, LUCERNNNNNE!

Here’s the earworm that accompanies my post:

Thanks, Dolly!


Now let’s get to business.

One of my favorite indie pattern designers has done it again! Adrianna of Hey June Handmade has a new top (aka blouse) and it’s more or less the perfect simple woven top pattern. While I’m calling the Lucerne Blouse simple, she’s not short on interesting details.

Stunning tie sleeves or delicate petal sleeves. Both are winners.

You have your choice of 2 included neckline shapes as well, but I’m just now realizing I only sampled the rounded neckline during testing.

it’s a wee bit wrinkled. shoot me.

it’s a wee bit wrinkled. shoot me.

My first version is sewn from a 1 yard cut of some magical micro stripe lawn (ticking?) of unknown source. ETA- I found it! It’s cotton voile, soured from La Mercerie.

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label a la Gwyn, ( she’s clever )

label a la Gwyn, (she’s clever)

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The stupendous Marie-Fluerine made a gorgeous lined lace version during testing and I had to copy her and make myself one right quick. And my trusty stash did not disappoint.

stretch twill Anthro-inspired pants-  blogged

stretch twill Anthro-inspired pants- blogged

This lace version is lined with lawn and sports the petal sleeves. Doing a full lining, one can omit the facing.

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Lace purchased from La Finch Fabrics several years back.

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I hemmed the lining a half inch higher than the outer layer to keep it from hanging below.

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And we’re just getting started! with a super simple general body style, Lucerne is very “hackable,” meaning make a few mods, and you’ve got a new style. So I cut into some of my new Rifle Paper Co. rayon.

Yeah. I pressed a big crease there and didn’t notice. It’s fine. Chill.

Yeah. I pressed a big crease there and didn’t notice. It’s fine. Chill.

And I gave this blouse what I call the Trevi treatment. (Trevi, if you’re not a well-seasoned Hey June patterns enthusiast, is a button-back tank top and dress.)

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Simply cut 2 mirrored back pieces, 1.5 inches away from the fold. Fold the center back under twice (1/4” and 5/8”) and you’ve got yourself a placket. You can make functional buttonholes and stuff, but you already know this blouse fits over your head without closures, so you can go ahead and just sew the buttons on through all the layers. #jazzhands

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The neckline on this blouse is bound with bias and the sleeve pieces have a delicate little rolled hem.

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Now that you’ve got two sexy sleeve variations, you can borrow the methods from Lucerne and add the same details to other tops.

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Take that beautiful tie sleeve and slap it on a button-up.

Cheyenne  in white rayon challis. Black  Ginger jeans .

Cheyenne in white rayon challis. Black Ginger jeans.

Keep the sleeve cap the same as your base pattern; just transfer the slit and sleeve length. Bind that baby and add the tie. You’re a sewing rockstar!

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I think I’ll be copying this ready to wear blouse shortly!

So, thanks for stopping by! I don’t need to tell you you NEED Lucerne in your pattern library, because you already bought it, right? Like yesterday?


[I sewed a straight size 8 for all my versions. (I measure 34” high bust, 35” full bust, 28” waist, 37” hips. 5’5”.)]

#sewrtwstyle Hvar Jacket

Did you catch my Hvar jacket hack as part of the Itch to Stitch Make It Wear It series this week? Participating was such a wonderful opportunity! It always feels good to get picked when applying for collaboration opportunities. In exchange for my participation, I received the pattern as well as monetary compensation for the blog contribution from Kennis and Blackbird Fabrics supplied the material. I can’t thank them both enough!

My motivations and inspiration are discussed in my sponsored post on the Itch to Stitch blog and I’m supplementing that post with more details on the drafting and construction modifications I made here.

Hvar line drawing

Hvar line drawing

ready to wear inspiration jacket

ready to wear inspiration jacket

My alterations to the original pattern:

photo edited by yours truly #iwontquitmydayjob

photo edited by yours truly #iwontquitmydayjob

Drafting Changes

  • Shortened collar 2.5” at back while widening 6.5”, straightened front angle

  • Skipped back panel fish eye darts

  • Added a center back seam with top-stitch detailing to outer back piece

  • Self lined front and back pieces with exterior cropped 2.5”

  • Added zippered welt pockets

  • Shortened sleeves 2”

  • Added asymmetric front zip

line drawing mod credit-  Gwyn

line drawing mod credit- Gwyn

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Construction changes

  • Hem before adding collar

  • Alternative collar attachment (illustration below and explanation below)

  • Right side of the separating zipper is attached between notches on the front piece; left half attaches to widened collar edge

this stunning highlighting was done by moi

this stunning highlighting was done by moi

Instead of finishing the outer edges of the collar piece (stitching line highlighted in red) before attaching it to the jacket, I attached the collar to the jacket first (green line), sandwiching all right sides together. Then I closed the outer edges of the collar leaving a few inches open in the back and turned the jacket out through the opening.

And I forking love this jacket.

worn with black twill  Ginger jeans  and a very wrinkled Lucerne top ( Hey June Handmade , in testing)

worn with black twill Ginger jeans and a very wrinkled Lucerne top (Hey June Handmade, in testing)

Blackbird’s tencel twill II is simply delicious. At the time of publishing, I believe the light olive color I received was sold out, but hello! THEY HAVE A GORGEOUS DUSTY ROSE COLOR NOW.

brb. Buying some STAT.

Oh and if you’re tempted by their scrumptious stock too, code HVAR15 will score you 15% off! (Code applies to all fabrics in the shop and excludes patterns, notions, workshops and gift cards. Valid 4/30-5/10.)

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I love it layered over a simple little black dress too.

yeah, it’s weird. I have knees.  shoes-  Livvy  by L’Artiste (about 3 people ask every single time I share an outfit wearing them)

yeah, it’s weird. I have knees.

shoes- Livvy by L’Artiste (about 3 people ask every single time I share an outfit wearing them)

Zippered, the collar drapes differently but it’s equally as interesting and beautiful.

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Here’s a closer look at one little detail: I used the selvedge for long zipper pulls.

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Whether you decide to sew it as designed or hack it, Hvar is probably the most stylish jacket pattern out there. And with only 4 pattern pieces, she’s surprisingly very straightforward to make.

Thanks for stopping by and thanks again to: