Lace Bib Issie

We're right in the middle of sewpony's Issie tour and it's my turn to share. I'm glad Suz asked me to join in the fun. It's a great line-up of creatives-

Issie has quite a multitude of style options included and comes in children's and teen/women's sizing.

I was particularly drawn to the curved bib feature.

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And I instantly knew I wanted to use lace for the bib.

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I paired crochet lace with a modal brushed french terry, both from La Finch Fabrics. (I have so much love for their famous maker offerings!)

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I'm really pleased with how it turned out and I absolutely love wearing it.

I chose to make size 8 AUS based on the finished measurements chart with my chest measurement of 36". Having sized down, the overall fit is trim. It's very comfortable and I particularly like the long sleeve cuffs.

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It's a rather easy modification (if it even qualifies as such!) from the original pattern-

Use the curved ruffle template to transfer the bib shape to the front bodice. Add 1/4" seam allowance here. Also add a 1/4" seam allowance to the bib template. Notch the centers. Voila! Two new pattern pieces to color-block (or should I say lace-block?) your Issie tops.

(I must admit I had a couple pictures to illustrate this process, but I think I missed adding the seam allowance to the front bodice and my head is still spinning trying to reason how and why I goofed. Thankfully knits are a bit forgiving!)

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There's a 10% discount off all sewpony patterns with code WOMENSISSIE10 for the duration of the tour (through Monday, September 3rd).

What do you think, should I make an Issie to twin with my daughter next? She's wearing one made during testing last year. She's got some spunk!

Thanks for having me, Suz.

Cosmo Tour

I couldn't pass up the opportunity when Suz of sewpony put a call out for folks looking to contribute to a blog tour for her new girls' dress pattern, Cosmo. While I didn't test the pattern, it's currently August and Cosmo suddenly spoke to me as being a great option for school uniforms. Lucky for me (as I discussed here), our school has a somewhat relaxed uniform policy. 

I had to reign in my initial enthusiasm a tad when I started thinking about how I was going to pull off the pattern matching of our school plaid with those lovely pockets and side panels.

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Possibly the best approach to difficult-to-match patterns is simply to throw the idea of matching across seams out the window completely. I decided to go with the most simple silhouette (the third view above) and cut the side panels on the bias.

Now, maybe you noticed that view doesn't have the awesome pockets that are one of the main design features. I know. I know. ONE DOES NOT SIMPLY LEAVE OFF THE POCKETS. But since I'm a plaid-matching wimp, I opted to do inseam pockets instead. I just borrowed the pockets from another sewpony pattern, Juliette. Actually, this is one of the awesome features of the Cosmo pattern- many of the options (sleeves, collars) from other sewpony patterns will fit. Suddenly Cosmo has even more design options.

 

I could not be happier with how it all came together! I mean, is it even possible to be in love with a school uniform?! Well, I'm in love with this one.

She found a little slug in the grass. I tried to get his mug shot.

I loved sneaking some little bird silhouette fabric in with the lining on the flutter sleeves and inside the pockets. It's a sweet touch for a little girl whose mum loves birds and a detail you wouldn't get on a store bought uniform. I also used the same accent fabric to finish the armscyes and neckline with bias. The Cosmo pattern comes with facings for a quick, clean finish. 

Inseam pockets

Inseam pockets

The piping detail is one of the things that initially turned me on to sewpony patterns. Sure, you could always add this detail to any pattern you're working with, but Suz's designs incorporate piping beautifully and her instructions will help you achieve the look if you haven't done it before.

Back features an exposed zipper with optional zip guard.

Back features an exposed zipper with optional zip guard.

I think the flutter sleeves are charming and will work with a long sleeve tee layered under as we head in to the colder months. 

We've got the first day of school outfit nailed, don't you think? Thanks for another splendid pattern, Suz!

Suz is offering a 15% off the Cosmo Dress PDF pattern with code- COSMOTOUR. (Valid now through midnight Australian Eastern Standard Time on Friday, September 1st.)

Sofie (WenSJewat) and Alex (giddyants) also have posts for the tour today and you can see the full line up of participants below. Thanks for stopping by. 

Dulcie in Knit

Suz of sewpony has an delightful FREE PATTERN, Dulcie, that you must try. It's similar to her Tic Tac Toe dress pattern in that both are designed to be made with woven fabrics and have an invisible zipper in the back. 

Tic Tac Toe dress, another sewpony pattern

Tic Tac Toe dress, another sewpony pattern

Given the loose fit and style of Dulcie, I thought it would sew up nicely in knit fabric, and well, I couldn't be happier!

Dulcie in knit

Dulcie in knit

So I made two!

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The fit is relaxed, slipping over the head easily. It's perfect for everyday wear and play or Dulcie can be dressed up depending on fabric choice. 

Dulcie is ideal for throwing rocks down at the levee

Dulcie is ideal for throwing rocks down at the levee

There are a few advantages to sewing with knits here. A) You can skip the zipper. Maybe you don't have one on hand or maybe you're scared of them. #zippersarelikespiders #theytakesomegettingusedto B) Kids tend to prefer knit clothing. It's stretchy and cozy. C) Knits typically don't need much ironing. #ironingblows D) And maybe you just have a lovely knit you want to use for this dress and there's not a woven equivalent of the print. Whatever the reason, here's all you need to do to sew Dulcie in knit-

  • Cut the back pieces (skirt, bodice, and bodice lining) on the fold (subtracting the seam allowance of 3/8").
  • After joining the shoulder seams, sew the neckline of the bodice and bodice lining together with right sides facing. (This is similar to how I made the peplum in this post, but the next 2 steps are different as that pattern has set in sleeves and this a dolman style bodice.)
  • With right sides together, close the side seams of the bodice and the bodice lining separately.
  • Close the sleeves with the lining and main right sides together, working around in a circle. (This part is a little tricky to visualize. See detail pic.) 
  • Turn the joined bodice. Gather and attach the skirt to both the main bodice and lining.

(I did use woven fabrics for the collar and the pockets for this version and those were sewn without any modifications.)

Detail on closing the sleeves. Working with the main bodice (blue print with white reverse here) and the lining bodice (solid peach here) from the wrong sides, fold the main sleeve back, creating a 1" cuff, exposing the right side. Slip the end of the lining sleeve over. Right sides will be together. Join along the raw edge of the sleeve, turning the sleeve around as you go.

Here's the finished knit Dulcie's guts (aka the finished dress as turned inside out.) 

Here's the finished knit Dulcie's guts (aka the finished dress as turned inside out.) 

It was a little windy today!