Liana Stretch Jeans, 2 ways

As mentioned in my Fancy Pants intro post, having read Allie Olson’s review of the Liana stretch jeans I knew I had to try them. So I used my November UpCraft credit to purchase the pattern and started setting aside fabrics and inspiration images.

When one of my favorite sewing buddies, Jen, visited in December, she gave me this incredible green RL brushed twill.

GAVE.

I asked her 3 times if she was sure, because it is so good.

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So I cut into that scrumptious stuff almost immediately. And I’m here to tell you I really like the Liana pattern.

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The mid-rise is perfect for me. I love that the pocket stay feature means the pocket bags don’t constantly need to be put back in their place. The Liana pattern does come with 3 leg shapes, but I’m a major skinny leg fan (so I’m not sure when I’ll be trying the straight or boot cuts, but I love that they are included).

thank god for sew alongs

thank god for sew alongs

One very interesting part of the construction was the waistband. The instructions call for twill tape to be basted into the seam allowance of the band’s upper edge. I was a bit baffled and needed to consult the sewalong for more images.

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Now, I didn’t see interfacing anywhere in the instructions, but I was concerned about the stability of the button and buttonhole so I fused a couple small pieces inside the band before closing it.

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I did adjust the back of the pants at the center back seam to eliminate the gape I always get. I’m a fan of basted-fitting every pant since stretch and behavior of every material varies quite a bit.

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My favorite hardware comes from Citron Jeans on Etsy. I noticed the washable paper patches in Kenji’s selection and decided to give them a try too. They come in a pack of 5, but I found cutting them in half still maintained a good size patch, so I’ll be able to make 10 patches from one bundle.

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Ultimately, I’m really happy with how this muslin pair turned out.

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I had my doubts about the waistband method. I can say, though, after multiple wears and washes it’s great. Maybe you already knew Kennis was a genius? I’m (regrettably) slow to catch on.

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I also wanted to talk about my Anthropolgie-inspired pair.

I decided to rise to the Fancy Pants challenge and cut into some Cone Mills denim for the first time.

velvet ribbon source-  SuchGoodSupply on Etsy ;  denim  sourced from LA Finch Fabrics

velvet ribbon source- SuchGoodSupply on Etsy; denim sourced from LA Finch Fabrics

I added the narrow strip of velvet ribbon to the pants front pieces 1” from the the outseam raw edge before assembling the front pockets.

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Then I joined the fronts and backs (with yoke) at the outseam. This is a slight departure from the pattern’s construction order. I wouldn’t recommend this construction order if you haven’t first sewn and made any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern since the outseam is a common seam to adjust for hip and waist fit.

With the side seam finished, I added the second ribbon just behind the side seam.

My edge stitch foot was my ally here.

My edge stitch foot was my ally here.

Finish assembling the pants and voila! FANCY.

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I honestly wasn’t sure about the velvet ribbon when I was in the thick of making these jeans. But I reasoned it would be easier to remove the ribbon later than to add it after the fact.

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And the fact is I love them. Lots.

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Certainly, you all were right that Cone Mills denim jeans are the fucking best. THE END.

Sew Fancy Pants Spotlight: La Mercerie

The next fabric shop in the spotlight is La Mercerie. You’re likely here because you follow the lovely and talented Jess on Instagram and you’re taking part in the #sewfancypants event with us this month. If you need to get up to speed, read Nicole’s post here. There’s still plenty of prizes to be given away and ample time to sew your own FANCY PANTS!

Let’s get to the goods!

Jess sent over samples of her very popular micro wale stretch corduroy which she was just able to restock this week.

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I’ll be able to show you olive, cinnamon, ochre, and bordeaux.

The stretch cord color options also include navy, black, and light slate and a slightly heavier 21 wale corduroy in charcoal.

Jess also sent samples of the chino twill so we’ll swoon over those. I’m IN LOVE with the “Nautical Red” color. It’s a lovely faded red/dusty mauve hue.

The non-stretch chino twill also comes in wine, creme, charcoal, black, lilac and slate.

I pulled the stretch stretch chino twill I purchased in November from my stash to share. I have 2 yards of the cardinal colorway that I have FANCY PANTS plans for (more here).

Black, charcoal, army green, navy, and hunter green are also available.

And last but not least, there’s non-stretch, 11 oz Cone Mills in the shop!

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I hope you’ll join us for the live swatch review and sewing chat session on IG, LIVE! There will be a coupon code revealed during the video good for a percentage off all La Mercerie purchases made during live broadcast!

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Narcisse Pants

I was gifted a copy of the the Deer and Doe Narcisse Pants pattern from the designers as part of Sew Fancy Pants month. As I mentioned also in my inspirations post, I had never really noticed all the great style lines and features of Narcisse. They are high-waisted (aka totally on trend) with in-seam pockets in the front, accent side panels, and welt pockets in the back, designed to be sewn with woven fabrics (non-stretch).

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I was instantly excited to dive in and bought some lightweight striped denim from Raspberry Creek Fabrics specifically for these pants and pulled some hemp ticking (sourced from La Mercerie) from my stash for the side panels.

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The construction order and methods were a bit different from many of the pants I’ve assembled before so I took my time and followed the assembly instructions closely. I know some sewers want to stick with what works for them (I’m looking at you, G) and seldom switch up their sewing repertoire, but I enjoy the process as much as the product. So I welcome new sewing adventures! Truly.

One of my challenges in making these pants was that the overhead lights went out in my sewing space. We still haven’t figured out why and we’re waiting on an electrician to come to the rescue. My sewing machine and several other outlets had power so I’d been working under lamps. All to say I had a little trouble with one of my welt pockets and I’m gonna go ahead and put the blame on the poor lighting conditions.

My issue was that I didn’t quite have much of a “triangle” at one end to secure and ended up with a bit of a hole. Some of my attempts to fix it made the situation worse. I finally decided to do some darning that mimicked the stripes in the denim and call it good.

before (with interfacing)

before (with interfacing)

after

after

I also had some fitting woes and nearly decided to give up on making these pants work. I think balancing the wide legs and stripes with my short-ish (5”5”) frame was where I was hung up. I tried slimming the legs a bit and then worked on the waist fit (perpetually an issue for me).

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Now, I haven’t sewn many non-stretch pants and I think I ended up over-fitting these a bit and maybe there’s a crotch or thigh fit issue I still need to explore (some photos show the fabric bulging in the front around the pelvis, and I’m constantly tugging the legs down). But they are wearable and I think they came out really cute!

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You might notice the new cardigan I whipped up to complete the outfit.

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The pattern is the Jenna cardi by Muse. I made the cropped length with short sleeves and a cuff which ends up being elbow length for me.

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I wish I had a layering tank in the right shade of navy blue for this outfit. I subbed in a long sleeve rtw bodysuit.

I used the same buttons on my cardi as my Narcisse pants.

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These pants even got the special treatment with a blind hem. #fancy

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I hope you’re joining us in sewing fancy pants this month. I’m having sew much fun, naturally! If you’re looking for the master list of sales, it’s here.

I’m open to recommendations for bodysuit or slim top patterns I can sew to wear with these. Let me know what you love. Adrienne? Nikko?

Sew Fancy Pants Spotlight: LA Finch Fabrics

LA Finch Fabrics has been enabling my fabric buying since 2015. Their shop used to be like a dirty little secret, but the news of their awesome sauce spread through the sewing community and I’m sure you’ve heard of them by now. (If not! Definitely join their FB group and follow them on IG.) Josie, Leslie, and the gang frequently run giveaways and sales.

I probably check LA Finch Fabrics’ site once a week to check for new stock. Since they are located in LA, as one might deduce from their name, they are often able to scoop up designer ends and deadstock. Those unique fabrics sell fast fast, often cannot be restocked, and are frequently listed in their End of Bolt section.

Now, since we’re sewing our fanciest pants this month, you’ll want to head straight to the bottomweights.

I think you’ll find (I checked last night) they have a good stock of Cone Mills denim, the Cadillac of denim. Of course, they also have ponte and other drapey wovens which you would want if you’re planning to sew various trouser or culotte styles.

If you haven’t already, head to Jen’s post today to enter to win a shop credit!

Sew Fancy Pants Fabric Shops

We have 6 great fabric shops sponsoring week 2 of the Sew Fancy Pants IG sewing party!

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What that means is that you can expect a giveaway from each of them!!!

So be sure you’re tuned in to all the host’s feeds-

That also means I’ve got A LOT of fabric options to share with you, so I’m going to have a post for each one, starting Monday. In the meantime, many of these fine shops have discounts and coupons to extend to you, which I’m sharing below so you can start shopping for your FANCY PANTS now.

Use code FANCYPANTS for 15% off bottom weight fabrics through January 31.


Tammy’s curated selection of bottom weights are all discounted 25% this month (no code needed).



15% off with code FANCYPANTS (EXTENDED!!) though January 18.



Through January 31, use code PANT19 for 10% off.


Additionally, several other shops are also running promotions!

Imagine Gnats- SEWPANTS15 for 15% off all bottomweights through January 31.

Maker Mountain Fabrics- 15% off with code ‘PANTS’ now through January 13.

Merritt Makes has their organic cotton twills discounted 10% for the whole month.

Raspberry Creek Fabrics has 20% off with code ‘FANCYPANTS20’ through January 31.

Sewing Studio is offering 15% off with code ‘fancy15’.

UpCraft Club has Women’s Pants patterns discounted!

I’m always happy to answer questions if you have any.

Happy Shopping, Friends!

Sew Fancy Pants

A couple weeks back, Nicole asked me if I wanted to join her and Katie in an IG sewing party for January. I was like, well, ummmm. Fork yes. I love sewcial sewing and party is my middle name. (I mean, it’s sew much, but yeah. You get the idea.) And I said, we need to get Jen in on it because she’s awesome and we “sew together.”

So here we are! Nicole, Katie, Jen and I are hosting a month-long sewing party for FANCY PANTS! It starts now (get planning!) and officially runs January 1-February 3, and includes some FANCY PANTS DANCING.

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See Nicole’s kick-off post for all the glorious details! I am really, really, really, REALLY jealous I can’t win all the amazing prizes we have lined up to give away from our incredibly generous sponsors.

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Alina Design Co. Anna Allen Clothing

Cashmerette Helen’s Closet

Itch to Stitch Named Clothing True Bias

And that’s just the list of sponsors for the first week!!

Now, I wanted to talk about my FANCY PANTS sewing plans a bit and offer some inspiration for you.

I saw this pair of Buttoned Utility Pants and was instantly inspired to recreate them.

The buttoned ankle detail is just too fab.

So a slim trouser with welt pockets in the back and a bitchin’ ankle detail in a lovely maroon twill is my goal. I don’t think I’ll do the slash pockets in the front and will do a typical jean front pocket.

After reading Allie’s review and comparison of Ash and Liana jeans in November, I knew I needed to get Itch to Stitch’s Liana pattern. I have the same general fitting issues it seems Allie has so I think Liana is going to be great for me too.

I purchased some stretch chino twill in cardinal from La Mercerie during Jess’s Black Friday sale for this project. It’s a lovely shade of muted red and the quality is great, of course!

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I was gifted the Narcisse pattern by Deer and Doe, one of our fabulous sponsors. Admittedly, I hadn’t really paid much attention to Narcisse before, but once I took a closer look, I was smitten.

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It’s easy to miss that there’s a side panel detail. But hello! SEW COOL. And the in-seam pocket! Bangin’.

Actually, come to think of it, Narcisse has a lot of the same details as my Antropologie pants! I smell a mashing opportunity!

At any rate, I got some cool striped denim from Raspberry Creek Fabrics that I was thinking would be a good match for the Narcisse pattern.

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I’m also considering denim with corduroy for the side panels.

Stretch Corduroy from  La Mercerie

Stretch Corduroy from La Mercerie

Here’s a few more fun, FANCY PANTS inspiration pics-

Pattern Suggestions-

Kendrick modified with a button fly or cropped Lander Pants

Fabric Suggestions-

Tencel Twill Solid Bottom Weight Mustard

Tencel Twill Solid Bottom Weight Mustard

Jetsetter Stretch Twill Mustard

Jetsetter Stretch Twill Mustard

Stretch Cotton Twill- Ochre

Stretch Cotton Twill- Ochre

I mean-

Pattern Suggestions-

Narcisse, Wide Leg Pants (free option!)

Fabric Suggestions-

Woven Houndstooth Black/White

Woven Houndstooth Black/White

Or maybe cozy is your game?

Pattern Suggestions-

Ninni Culottes, Winslow Culottes with elastic waist hack

Fabric Suggestions-

Stretch Velvet Solid Teal

Stretch Velvet Solid Teal

Stretch Velvet Eggplant

Stretch Velvet Eggplant

CRUSHED STRETCH VELVET

CRUSHED STRETCH VELVET

I hope that’s got your sewing gears turning and you’re thinking about what FANCY PANTS you’ll sew to join us! I’ll be back for Week 2 of the FANCY PANTS Sewing Party with a full post dedicated to fabric. WHO DOESN’T LOVE FABRIC?