Hidden Kangaroo Pocket for Halifax

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A few folks asked for a tutorial on how I achieved the pocket after I shared my new favorite sweatshirt, so today I'm showing you how to create a simple hidden kangaroo pocket for the Halifax pattern (Hey June).

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I had recently made 3 View Es of Halifax. It started with trying to recreate the hi-lo hem on the newly released Sunday Everyday (Ensemble Patterns). 

I think it worked out fine, but anyway! Back to the pocket, Loni. Focus.

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First, make a copy (by printing another one or tracing the original) of the Halifax's front panel, and cut it to the height of the pocket pouch you desire. My pocket panel pattern piece is about 10 inches long on the angled side seam. Scoop out a shallow pocket opening in the middle of the side seam, preserving about 2 inches of the original side seam above and below the opening. 

You'll be using this new pattern piece to cut a pocket facing and a pocket lining. The pocket facing has the curved openings and the lining is cut straight, without any openings.

Take your main front panel (folded) and lay your new template over. Then cut out the pocket openings.

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Also cut a pocket facing with pocket openings and a pocket lining (red) without the openings. If you are using a light weight knit, you may want to interface the wrong side of the pocket facing to give the pocket a little stability. I used ponte for this example and a quilted knit for my original design so I did not interface those pieces.

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Place the front panel and pocket facing right sides together. Sew or serge along the pocket opening curves (essentially between pins here).

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Flip the pocket facing so the front panel and the facing are now wrong sides together. Press. Top stitch the pocket opening curves.

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Lay the pocket lining over the pocket facing, right sides together. Sew or serge along the top straight edge, keeping the main front panel out of the way.

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That is it, my friends! 

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You may like to baste or pin the 3 layers together along the sides and bottom to avoid shifting while you assemble the rest of your Halifax as per the pattern instructions.

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Dulcie in Knit

Suz of sewpony has an delightful FREE PATTERN, Dulcie, that you must try. It's similar to her Tic Tac Toe dress pattern in that both are designed to be made with woven fabrics and have an invisible zipper in the back. 

Tic Tac Toe dress, another sewpony pattern

Tic Tac Toe dress, another sewpony pattern

Given the loose fit and style of Dulcie, I thought it would sew up nicely in knit fabric, and well, I couldn't be happier!

Dulcie in knit

Dulcie in knit

So I made two!

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The fit is relaxed, slipping over the head easily. It's perfect for everyday wear and play or Dulcie can be dressed up depending on fabric choice. 

Dulcie is ideal for throwing rocks down at the levee

Dulcie is ideal for throwing rocks down at the levee

There are a few advantages to sewing with knits here. A) You can skip the zipper. Maybe you don't have one on hand or maybe you're scared of them. #zippersarelikespiders #theytakesomegettingusedto B) Kids tend to prefer knit clothing. It's stretchy and cozy. C) Knits typically don't need much ironing. #ironingblows D) And maybe you just have a lovely knit you want to use for this dress and there's not a woven equivalent of the print. Whatever the reason, here's all you need to do to sew Dulcie in knit-

  • Cut the back pieces (skirt, bodice, and bodice lining) on the fold (subtracting the seam allowance of 3/8").
  • After joining the shoulder seams, sew the neckline of the bodice and bodice lining together with right sides facing. (This is similar to how I made the peplum in this post, but the next 2 steps are different as that pattern has set in sleeves and this a dolman style bodice.)
  • With right sides together, close the side seams of the bodice and the bodice lining separately.
  • Close the sleeves with the lining and main right sides together, working around in a circle. (This part is a little tricky to visualize. See detail pic.) 
  • Turn the joined bodice. Gather and attach the skirt to both the main bodice and lining.

(I did use woven fabrics for the collar and the pockets for this version and those were sewn without any modifications.)

Detail on closing the sleeves. Working with the main bodice (blue print with white reverse here) and the lining bodice (solid peach here) from the wrong sides, fold the main sleeve back, creating a 1" cuff, exposing the right side. Slip the end of the lining sleeve over. Right sides will be together. Join along the raw edge of the sleeve, turning the sleeve around as you go.

Here's the finished knit Dulcie's guts (aka the finished dress as turned inside out.) 

Here's the finished knit Dulcie's guts (aka the finished dress as turned inside out.) 

It was a little windy today!