Anthro-Inspired Franken-Pants: A #sewfancypants Win

At some point in November (2018) I came across these pants on the interwebs. I instantly fell in love with the style lines and wanted to recreate them in the wine color.

The ankle button tab detail! Squee!

So I purchased the cardinal stretch chino twill offered by La Mercerie during Jess’ Black Friday Sale.

stretch_cardinal.jpg

After sewing both the Liana Stretch Jeans by Itch to Stitch and the Narcisse Pants by Deer and Doe for Sew Fancy Pants, I knew I wanted to combine aspects of both patterns to achieve the ready to wear pants of my dreams.

[Itch to Stitch and Deer and Doe were both sponsors for the Sew Fancy Pants Instagram event. I purchased the Liana pattern from UpCraft Club with my monthly credit (I have a month-to-month account) and I received the Narcisse pattern for free.]


The back of the pants are 90% Liana. I laid the Liana back pattern piece over the back of the Bryce cargo pattern (which I had also previously sewn) to eliminate the yoke.

(It’s come to my attention since winging this my own way, that there are posts out there (for example) about switching out a pattern with a yoke for one with darts, but I went the mashing route with 2 of my tried and true patterns.)

I used the patch pocket markings from Bryce to situate the welts from Narcisse and used all the back welt pocket pattern pieces and instructions from Narcisse.

IMG_20190129_120203.jpg
IMG_20190129_133328.jpg
IMG_20190202_091038.jpg

The front of my pants are also about 80% (I’m making these numbers up as I go along) Liana with a touch of Narcisse. I knew from my muslin of Liana that I would cut the front of the pants 10” up from the original hem to create the lower front vented panel. I took 2” off from the original side seam to make the side seam panel that would give birth to the front inseam pockets a la Narcisse.

IMG_20190129_124207.jpg

And here is where I made a mistake I frequently make when altering patterns. I cut my new side panel 2 1/2” (width plus seam allowance x 1) wide instead of 3” wide (width plus seam allowance x 2). Thankfully the 1/2” seam allowance was enough that I could sew the fronts with 1/4” seam allowances and not end up with a pair of pants a size too small.

00000PORTRAIT_00000_BURST20190130095834524.jpg

So anyway! The front pockets are basically inseam pockets. They sit on the seam I created between the front of the pants and the 2” wide side panel. This general approach was borrowed from Narcisse.

And the pockets are enormous! After all was said and done, the left pocket was too wide and overlapped with the front fly too much, so I trimmed it down.

Sorry this photo is too purple. White balance is for people who know what they are doing. That’s obviously not me.

Sorry this photo is too purple. White balance is for people who know what they are doing. That’s obviously not me.

This was after I removed about 3” from the top of the Narcisse front pocket pattern piece! The rise on Narcisse is higher than Liana and I just guestimated how big I would want these to be by holding the pattern piece up to my body. If I were to do it over again, I would adapt the Liana pocket stays to be compatible with an inseam construction.

Since the fly isn’t stabilized by the pockets in my pants, I interfaced the fly extensions.

IMG_20190130_104056.jpg

The lower front panel was the bottom 10 1/2” of the original Liana front. I attached it to the assembled upper front and top stitched the seam. When I closed the side seams, I simply stopped at the level of the bottom panel.

IMG_20190131_124740.jpg

I removed an inch from length at the hem so they would finish at the ankle (I am 5’ 5” tall). I also slimmed the width of both the front and back at the vent, tapering from 1” wide at the hem to nothing at the top of the vent. (I wear a size 7 shoe and this was perfect for me, but you ought to do some foot and ankle measurements if you want to be able to keep the buttons closed while taking the pants on and off. It wouldn’t be the worst thing in the world to have to open and closed the buttons, but I don’t have time for that myself!

Now comes the creative part for creating the button placket/vent feature. I polled my IG followers and mulled it over quite a bit. Folks either said they would approach it as a button fly a la Landers or they would bind the seam a la Brunswick. I don’t own the Lander pants pattern and was familiar with Brunswick having recently tested that pattern, so I went with that method.

I sewed the hem before adding the binding. My pattern piece for the binding was 4” wide by 18” (2” finished width plus seam allowance x 2 by (vent height x 2) plus (seam allowance x 2)). I hope I’m making sense! I wish I had some simple illustration skillz. I just don’t!

IMG_20190131_125836.jpg

Then they just needed a shit ton of buttons. Lucky for me, I’m a glutton and had ordered a bucket load from my favorite jeans button peddler, Citron Jeans, about 10 days prior.

00100lPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20190201134518185_COVER.jpg

These are 14mm buttons, so I used 2 for the waistband.

IMG_20190202_090655.jpg

Five on each ankle vent.

00100lPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20190202090758896_COVER.jpg

And 1 for each of the welts.

IMG_20190202_090910.jpg
IMG_20190202_090931.jpg

So 14 buttons and holes! Weee!

The end of my story is simply that I love these pants. I think they turned out pretty damn amazing.

IMG_20190202_093519.jpg
IMG_20190202_093109.jpg
IMG_20190201_170423.jpg

And my pocket bags match my Rifle Paper Co. rayon Trevi top (which I made last summer)! Kudos to that Clever gal, Colleen, for telling me to pair these 2 garments together.

IMG_20190202_093550.jpg

And they look great with my new Keds!

IMG_20190202_095204_461.jpg

I’m always happy to talk shop if you have any questions or comments. Thanks for reading!

Liana Stretch Jeans, 2 ways

As mentioned in my Fancy Pants intro post, having read Allie Olson’s review of the Liana stretch jeans I knew I had to try them. So I used my November UpCraft credit to purchase the pattern and started setting aside fabrics and inspiration images.

When one of my favorite sewing buddies, Jen, visited in December, she gave me this incredible green RL brushed twill.

GAVE.

I asked her 3 times if she was sure, because it is so good.

00000PORTRAIT_00000_BURST20190106131457545.jpg

So I cut into that scrumptious stuff almost immediately. And I’m here to tell you I really like the Liana pattern.

IMG_20190101_152013.jpg

The mid-rise is perfect for me. I love that the pocket stay feature means the pocket bags don’t constantly need to be put back in their place. The Liana pattern does come with 3 leg shapes, but I’m a major skinny leg fan (so I’m not sure when I’ll be trying the straight or boot cuts, but I love that they are included).

thank god for sew alongs

thank god for sew alongs

One very interesting part of the construction was the waistband. The instructions call for twill tape to be basted into the seam allowance of the band’s upper edge. I was a bit baffled and needed to consult the sewalong for more images.

00000IMG_00000_BURST20190102143128862_COVER.jpg

Now, I didn’t see interfacing anywhere in the instructions, but I was concerned about the stability of the button and buttonhole so I fused a couple small pieces inside the band before closing it.

IMG_20190103_105320.jpg

I did adjust the back of the pants at the center back seam to eliminate the gape I always get. I’m a fan of basted-fitting every pant since stretch and behavior of every material varies quite a bit.

00100lPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20190105133143638_COVER.jpg

My favorite hardware comes from Citron Jeans on Etsy. I noticed the washable paper patches in Kenji’s selection and decided to give them a try too. They come in a pack of 5, but I found cutting them in half still maintained a good size patch, so I’ll be able to make 10 patches from one bundle.

00000IMG_00000_BURST20190106102330411_COVER.jpg

Ultimately, I’m really happy with how this muslin pair turned out.

IMG_20190106_124332.jpg

I had my doubts about the waistband method. I can say, though, after multiple wears and washes it’s great. Maybe you already knew Kennis was a genius? I’m (regrettably) slow to catch on.

00000IMG_00000_BURST20190106124641529_COVER.jpg
00000IMG_00000_BURST20190106124716150_COVER.jpg

I also wanted to talk about my Anthropolgie-inspired pair.

I decided to rise to the Fancy Pants challenge and cut into some Cone Mills denim for the first time.

velvet ribbon source-  SuchGoodSupply on Etsy ;  denim  sourced from LA Finch Fabrics

velvet ribbon source- SuchGoodSupply on Etsy; denim sourced from LA Finch Fabrics

I added the narrow strip of velvet ribbon to the pants front pieces 1” from the the outseam raw edge before assembling the front pockets.

00000PORTRAIT_00000_BURST20190116095107648.jpg

Then I joined the fronts and backs (with yoke) at the outseam. This is a slight departure from the pattern’s construction order. I wouldn’t recommend this construction order if you haven’t first sewn and made any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern since the outseam is a common seam to adjust for hip and waist fit.

With the side seam finished, I added the second ribbon just behind the side seam.

My edge stitch foot was my ally here.

My edge stitch foot was my ally here.

Finish assembling the pants and voila! FANCY.

IMG_20190118_102438.jpg
IMG_20190118_102820.jpg

I honestly wasn’t sure about the velvet ribbon when I was in the thick of making these jeans. But I reasoned it would be easier to remove the ribbon later than to add it after the fact.

IMG_20190118_103740.jpg

And the fact is I love them. Lots.

00000IMG_00000_BURST20190121093350342_COVER.jpg

Certainly, you all were right that Cone Mills denim jeans are the fucking best. THE END.